Pub Awards: Best Food finalist - The Cornish Arms, Tavistock, Devon

But in that period, the chef and his ambitious team have gone from strength to strength, being listed among the country’s Top 50 Gastropubs.

Despite being a tenancy (with pubco St Austell), Hooker hasn’t held back on making investments, such as installing a new kitchen and developing the pub’s extensive outdoor area. Further plans are under way to add a series of rooms to the pub so as to make the absolute most of the space.

Well-cooked

Hooker’s food is extraordinarily well-cooked and treats the surrounding area’s superb produce with the respect it deserves. Menu highlights include a remarkably succulent portion of ox cheek with whipped horseradish and a deliciously rich ‘Arnold Bennett’ smoked fish and chive omelette.

And while the quality of the cooking rivals, and indeed outshines, that of many fine-dining restaurants, portion sizes at the Cornish Arms won’t leave customers feeling hard done by. The opposite is the case: the Cornish Arms’ menu is competitively priced, making it accessible not just for those who want to splash the cash, but customers who just want a quick bite.

But the Cornish Arms is still a pub. It’s frequented by diners, long-standing regulars, revellers, sports fans and local darts players and provides a quality offer to meet all needs.