The spicy world of Syrah or Shiraz
Winter days call for warming wines. There can be few reds as deep in colour and rich in texture as Syrah, which is frequently called Shiraz outside Europe. Whether serving a full-bodied red by the glass or partnering foods as diverse as beef or game, Syrah/Shiraz could be the answer. If looking for a bottle to accompany spicy cuisine, such as north African, or even a peppered steak, this grape variety could be the ideal choice. A glass or two is the wine trade's antidote to "sad" syndrome (seasonal affective disorder) and should cheer everyone up on wet windy days. Syrah/Shiraz is not only a red wine star in its own right but a major constituent of classic blends, such as Chateauneuf-du-Pape when it is mixed with such grapes as Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsaut. The aromas of Syrah/Shiraz have a metallic hint, as when a can of sardines is first opened, or sometimes burnt rubber. The mulberry fruit on taste can have an attractive sweet uplift and is usually well integrated with the tannin, which comes largely from the skins. Twenty years ago, this grape was virtually known only in the French Rhone valley. Today, it is the most widely-planted in Australia, second for new red plantings in California and the third most widely grown in France. France insists on the term "Syrah" and even forced a major UK supermarket group to withdraw a French wine labelled Shiraz earlier in the year and re-label it. Southern France is a source of some of the least expensive Syrah. For spice and style, Minervois Syrah like Chateau Faiteau will not disappoint (Laytons). The northern Rhone is the area classically known for Syrah. Look for the appellations of Cornas, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, St Joseph and, at the top end, Cote-Rotie. Reliable producers include Chave, Gaillard, Graillot and Jaboulet-Aine. Whilst a Crozes-Hermitage or St Joseph can be served when about four years of age, most prefer at least six years. One sales idea would be to offer two Syrah/Shiraz wines, one inexpensive and the other up-market, encouraging comparison (and hence orders for two wines!). Initially by the glass, it may persuade many to trade up and order a bottle with food. South Africa ships several examples, including the light Landskroon from Paarl whose 2000 vintage is offered by Majestic (£6.99). Australia yields some stunning Shiraz. Try the organic Kalleske estate 2001 from South Australia's Barossa Valley (M&S £8.99). It shows rich plummy fruit and was made in stainless steel open-top fermenters and aged in French and American oak for up to 18 months. Western Australia, probably that country's liveliest wine region, is making fine Shiraz. Look at the peppery Margaret River wines from 2000 which can hit 14% alcohol-by-volume and even higher. Frankland River is the coolest of Western Australia's sites and yields chunky Shiraz like Frengrove 2000 (Oddbins/Great Western £6.40 to £6.49). Arguably Australia's greatest wine, Penfolds Grange, is almost entirely Shiraz. First made in 1951, it shows the power and intensity of this grape and its capacity to age. Exciting bottles from as diverse vineyards as Portugal's Alentejo, America's Washington State and Puglia in Italy show how popular this grape has become. If you wish to surprise enthusiasts, seek out Trinity Hill from New Zealand's Hawke's Bay. Its smoky spice and supple fruit should prove a delightful balance.
