Great value Portuguese wine is about to get a major boost
Portugal offers the best value-for-money wines in Europe. They are so understated. Yet, after a little homework, stunning fruity reds and delightful whites can be found. Probably the absence of major brands (Mateus excepted), the difficulty of language, the plethora of small vineyards and concentration on indigenous grape varieties all conspire against Portugal. Sir Cliff Richard is about to give Portuguese wine a major boost. For years, the pop singer has owned a property in the Algarve Portugal's most southerly region which is better known for its beaches and golf courses than vineyards. Now, Sir Cliff has had the grapes on his estate turned into a relatively soft, cinnamon spicy red Vida Nova by the talented Australian winemaker, David Baver-stock. I predict it will be a great success. Portugal's wines have been transformed since the country joined the EU in 1986. Vast sums have poured into creating new wineries with modern technology. The white wines are now usually aromatic, floral and vibrant. Vinho Verde is the refreshing wine (apt, as the name means "green wine") from the most northerly region of Portugal. Most exported to the UK is white, either dry or just off-dry, mainly from the Alvarinho, Loureiro and Pederna grapes. Usually with a slight sparkle, the apple green flavours and high acidity go well with mackerel. Prices start from £3 per bottle. Look for Quinta da Azevedo and, for real style, Brejoeira. The steep valley of the river Douro has been the source of Port for centuries. Now light wines which have not had the addition of spirit are being commercialised. Such wine used to be made just for entertaining in the region. Duas Quintas is just such a wine, using two grapes normally planted for Port: Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional. It is made at the Ramos-Pinto estate, now owned by Roederer (of Champagne fame). A full-bodied red 1999 (£6.50) and a velvety rich 1995 Reserva (£20.50), which is matured for three years in French oak barrels, are the result. Both are spicy, drink well with game and would cost around three times as much for the equivalent quality outside Portugal. Several single grape Douro reds are made by Quinta do Portal. Look for the Tinta Roriz 2000 for its smoky fruit and morello cherries, awarded a "great gold" medal at the Brussels Concours Mondial, as well as the lighter supple Touriga Nacional 1999. Dao is the central Portuguese region, named after the river which flows through it, which yields lovely fruit-packed reds. Try Quinta dos Carvalhais with steak and kidney as well as game. Bairrada is the coastal district west of Dao. Here the Baga grape makes stylish supple reds that drink well with lamb, such as Bela Fonte 2000 (£5.49 Oddbins) or the complex distinguished wines of Luis Pato (Laytons for 1997 and Laymont & Shaw for younger years). The light fruit and high acidity of the white Bical is lovely with fish like trout. Alenquer to the south (north-east of Lisbon) is a source of good-value reds, like Castas do Carneiro (1998 £4.49 Majestic) and Quinta das Setencostas (2001 Oddbins £6.99). Along the border with Spain are the regions of Beira and Alentejo. Both are areas to watch. Such is the potential that just over a decade ago, the Lafite-Rothschilds invested in Quinta do Carmo at Borba in Alentejo. That is recognition for any wine area.
