The fruitful age
No matter where you go, in the world of wine that is, there is one particular type of wood that is inextricably associated with the maturation of wine. The wood to which I am referring is, of course, oak. The relationship between oak and wine goes back to Roman times and despite the fact that over the centuries, many other types of wood have been used to make barrels, oak has proved to be superior. All the fine red wines of the world a number of superb whites and a good percentage of fortified wines owe part of their quality and taste to the oak in which they have been aged. Oak can add complexity to both red and white wines as well as a toasty quality, the intensity of which depends on the extent to which the inside of the barrel was charred when being assembled by the cooper. In that respect, the cooper's contribution to the characteristics of the finished barrel is almost as important as the oak itself. The combination of toasted barrels, and the natural vanilla flavour that oak imparts, needs to be handled with subtlety. In recent years, however, oak-flavoured wines reached the stage where they almost dominated the market, but all too often the oakiness was overstated to the extent where sickly vanilla flavours obliterated the natural fruitiness and character of the wine. There are those who still prefer it that way, but more and more wine drinkers feel that, if wine is made from grapes, it should taste of the fruit from whence it came. That is not to say that the use of oak is always inappropriate. Used skilfully and sensitively, oak barrels, especially those that have already been used once or twice, can impart tantalising nuances of flavour. Even so, more recently, there has been a movement away from extensive barrel ageing in favour of wines that display the natural fruity aromas and flavours of the grape itself. More than that, clumsy barrel ageing can result in wines that are not just bereft of fruit flavours, but also withered and faded in colour and taste too. Up-to-the-minute wine-making practises favour wines with more fruit and vigour and a smooth, velvety style. In Bordeaux, for example, many of the finest properties now age their wines in barrels for only 12 months instead of two years. Think of it this way if the merest hint of perfume on your beloved is enough to fire the senses, it does not follow that a bucketful will send you into orbit. Quite the reverse, it will simply have a choking effect. Subtlety is all. What does all this mean for the average licensee? One thing is for sure, we need to be careful if we wish to expand our sales of wine over the bar. You know your customers better than anyone else, but, even so, you may like to consider the following points: l Wine is made from grapes, not oak, so select nice fruity wines l The average wine drinker does not want to have a hard time with a glass of wine which is laden with tannin and/or sickly, throat-clogging vanilla. Fruity wines make easier drinking that in turn, means repeat orders. l In any event, the market for complex, oak-aged wines is limited. Few pubs can compete at that level, so select nice, fruity wines. l Cheaper, oak-flavoured wines that are made to taste that way by various methods such as oak chips or even liquid oak, are about as subtle as a lead cosh and have roughly the same effect. Stick to nice fruity wines. l Nice young fruity wines are cheaper as a rule and sell well because they are a joy to drink.
