Donald McFadden, head chef at Café Royal, Edinburgh, on...Sea bass.
"I love all fresh fish, but if I had to choose one, it would be sea bass. It has a good flavour and a meaty consistency. It is particularly good if the skin is left on and it is roasted. Normally, it is served very simply; steamed with black beans or cooked in white wine, garlic and onion, with a splash of soy sauce. At Café Royal we cook it with butternut squash and fennel, and add a dash of olive oil or walnut oil. Delicious!
"The coasts of Britain are superb for fresh seafood and in Scotland we are lucky to have such good access - the sea bass we cook at the pub comes from the Firth of Forth. We also get a lot from a supplier called Blinkbonny Organics, based in Newburgh, Fife. They have a farm shop and send us regular organic boxes. "You can get sea bass pretty much all year round, but because they are spawning in April to July, it is best to avoid this time. In the winter they are readily available and make the perfect warming meal."