The switch from hotels to a pub was a dramatic change for ch

No gas, power cuts and trawling through slime to stop a burst water pipe flooding the bar are just some of the challenges faced by chefs Katy and Tim Neal. But the couple have refused to let the hazards of running the Chequers Inn in Rowhook dampen their passion to establish a high-quality food operation in rural West Sussex. The pair, who became tenants with Punch pub company in 2001, have turned a failing business with a reputation for appalling food into a gastro pub acclaimed by food critic Diana Henry as one of the best in the UK. Creating their own gastro pub had been the burning ambition of Tim and Katy since they met as chefs in the hotel and restaurant trade. "We'd always wanted to be in charge of our own business," says Tim, whose CV includes a master chef accolade and three AA rosettes. "I had always been intrigued by gastro pubs because they offer excellent cuisine, but without the ceremony that is involved in restaurant dining," he explains. "I think that is why the concept has been so popular." The couple were quick to recognise the potential of the Chequers Inn. Its rural location in the hamlet of Rowhook near Horsham and separate restaurant and bar areas made it an ideal site for a destination food pub, says Tim. "We spent a long time looking for the right pub, but when we saw the Chequers Inn we knew it was perfect." Despite years of neglect, the abandoned pub responded immediately to redecoration and repair, says Katy. "We cleaned away the dirt and grime to uncover the low oak beams and artefacts of a charming 15th-century building." However, it was the culinary expertise of the new tenants, which lured local customers back to the pub. A carefully-crafted menu, including roast cannon of lamb on cumin-roasted carrots and crispy confit duck served with sautéed potatoes and truffled French beans, proved an instant success. "At first people had a low opinion of the pub's food," says Katy. "But we were able to change their minds and have built a strong reputation purely through word of mouth." The Neals' commitment to sourcing the finest cooking ingredients has resonated among an increasingly food-conscious clientele. Neals Restaurant is consistently booked out on weekends and many weekday nights. "I obtain the best regional ingredients or bring in the finest fillet steak and mussels fresh from Scotland." says Tim. "I think that's a breath of fresh air for people trying to escape the microwave food on offer in most pubs." The duo's dedication to gastronomy has also attracted recent critical acclaim. The Chequers Inn received praise as one of the UK's top 50 gastro pubs by The Gastro Pub Cookbook author Diana Henry, in an article for The Independent. "When we saw the comments we were delighted," enthuses Tim. "It's been great for the business and we have had customers travelling down from London to try our food." Making the transition from hotel chefs to licensees was, at first, a demanding process, admits Katy. "I thought we were working long hours before, but running the pub is even harder," she explains. "You are working out finances and helping people out with their problems." However, fulfilling the roles of a multi-skilled landlady has ultimately proved a satisfying experience, she says. "I love it when the place is busy and you can hear the laughter coming from the bar. It's just a fantastic feeling." Despite their success at the Chequers, they are unlikely to adopt a second venue, says Tim. "I just wouldn't be willing to compromise the quality of our service," he explains. "We'd rather run one excellent food pub than two average ones." Too many top chefs and successful gastro pubs attempt expansion at the cost of diluted standards, argues Tim. "I would rather do 40 good-quality covers than attempt to cram as many customers in to the pub as possible," he says. "If people feel rushed they won't come back." The long-term ambition of both Tim and Katy is to run a freehold venue in West Sussex. "Eventually we would like to set-up our own pub, but good freeholds are difficult to find," says Tim. The couple are keen to remain in the pub trade and regard the many black outs and blocked drains they have encountered at the Chequers Inn as a great training ground. "We are very content in what we are doing," says Tim. "For us, it's about offering a top quality service and not trying to make as much money as possible." The game plan Demonstrating the Neals' commitment to local produce, Tim teams up with gamekeeper, Gerald Parsons each autumn during the shooting season. "It's a very communal thing," he explains. "After the hunt I buy the pheasant and then Gerald comes down to the pub to see me prepare it." The charismatic local gamekeeper is renowned for sitting on his favourite perch at the bar and encouraging passers by to order game dishes from the menu. The customers need little encouragement, says Tim. "Many people think pheasant can be too dry but when they sample our menu they quickly change their minds." A portrait of Parsons takes pride of place beside the bar. The wily gamekeeper has been known to dispatch an advanced party of Labrador retrievers to the Chequers Inn equipped with notes detailing his drinks order. Locally-grown wild mushrooms, garlic and asparagus are further examples of regional produce incorporated into the pub's menu during the year. "I'm always looking to use as many locally sourced ingredients as possible," says Tim. Sample Fare On the Chequers Inn menu: Bar Bruschetta of Sussex, goat's cheese salad, sun-blushed tomatoes & olives £7.50 Scottish mussels with lemon grass, lime leaf, ginger & garlic £7.00 Restaurant (â la carte) Pan-fried sea scallops with cauliflower purée, Sautéd fillet of beef with morcilla sausage and garlic pomme purée Ballotine of breast of guinea fowl with morel mushrooms £22 for two courses