Pub chef opinion: Change is not a dirty word

20-Sep-2012 - Last updated on 11-Mar-2017 at 18:56 GMT

Bonvini-Hamel: "The choice was either change the way we did things or close the doors for good"

It’s hard for any a passionate chef to accept that they have to change. For Ross [Pike] and I, both chefs, it was a difficult time when we realised our pub’s business plan needed a boost. It dented our pride and, most of all, we were anxious about it going against our principles.

Before we opened the doors of the British Larder I was reading David Chang’s book Momofuku. It is about his experiences and what made his restaurants what they are today.

He gave us the most important bit of business advice as were going through the ‘shall we do it, shall we not’ stage of opening the pub — to change the way you do things before it’s too late and to save your business and secure its future you must be flexible. For two chefs who cook with only the best ingredients, it’s been a hard pill to swallow.

We hit hard times about a year and half ago and we came to a crossroads. The choice was either change the way we did things (this didn’t necessarily mean changing our values) or close the doors for good.

We chose to adapt the way we work. It was tricky but we saved the business and in the process we’ve never forgotten our values — why we are here or who we are as chefs.

And it’s actually made us stronger. We believe now, more than ever, in our identity and in firmly establishing our brand. With the introduction of a set lunch menu we cater for a wider audience. The set menu attracts the curious but cautious customer and that kind of customer usually becomes a loyal one, returning regularly.

As a destination pub we also recognised that our customers want value, which can be measured in various ways. Value does not necessarily mean cheap. Our customers will pay more for a glass of wine if it’s the right quality, served in the right way and most importantly with a smile.

We offer our entire wine list by the glass. It’s risky but there are great preservation systems on the market; we use the Pod Bar system by Bermar International. This makes the world of difference, and helps us offer that something different; that something extra special.