Good Pub Guide: Menu speak is harming food

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Menu pollution is the newest threat to quality pub food, according to Alistair Aird, editor of the latest Good Pub Guide.In the introduction to the...

Menu pollution is the newest threat to quality pub food, according to Alistair Aird, editor of the latest Good Pub Guide.

In the introduction to the Good Pub Guide 2003, Alistair claims over-hyped, flowery language on menus is making good pub food inaccessible.

"Many pub chefs are doing the right thing but others are putting all their imagination and flights of fancy into the menu instead of the food itself," he said.

"This is how one pub over-hypes its actually very enjoyable salmon fish fingers: 'Scottish salmon digits, heavenly dusted in cracked black peppercorns and pan flashed before being nappied with a cream glacé built up with a dash of brandy, a touch of mustard and a scattering of green peppercorns'."

He said good food simply did not need such over-written descriptions. And he warned that flowery language raises expectations - which can then lead to disappointed customers.

"The best pub chefs are usually content to let their food speak for itself and don't need menu spin to hype it up," he said.

It was not all bad news for pub grub, however. The guide also discovered an "explosion" of interest in fresh ingredients being utilised by pub chefs. "This is having a splendid effect on pub food quality," said Alistair.

The current trend towards pubs offering cut-price smaller helpings of dishes was also applauded.

Alistair said this was a "real boon for older customers".

Split pricing, stating the full price for a main course as well as a lower price for a starter or lighter meal, was also commended.

And, it seems, pub food fashions are taking on a decidedly retro look. According to Alistair "the trio that was so popular in the 1960s and 1970s is firmly back on stage; whitebait, chicken chasseur and crème brulée".

The guide, which was published last week, also named the best pubs in the country for fish, bargain food and dining as well as for beer, wine and whisky.