Pubs slam writer after food attack

Pubs have hit back at claims they should stick to serving steak and chips and avoid more exotic dishes.

According to travel writer David Else, author of the latest Lonely Planet guide to Britain, tourists eating in pubs should choose "standard fare" instead of more adventurous meals.

And he added that though British food is on the up but pubs are lagging behind.

Writing in the Sunday Times, Mr Else commended the British for transforming their "dreary pubs" into "bright, airy café bars".

He said British food had changed beyond recognition over the past 10 years.

"We now have some world-class restaurants in some surprising places," he said. "And not just curry and pizza or chicken tikka-filled Yorkshire pudding."

But although he was complimentary about British food in general, he said pubs had not quite caught up with the latest trends.

"We used to make jokes about boiled beef and overcooked carrots, but now anyone can get a good meal in Britain," he said.

"The old advice still applies for most pubs though - you're generally better off with standard fare such as steak and chips than the Thai seafood curry special which seems to be attempted everywhere."

But as the trade knows, British pub food is now far more than the steak and chips or lasagne of old and Mr Else's comments have been criticised as "unfair" and "narrow" by pub owners.

A spokeswoman for Punch Pub Company, which owns pubs serving, among other food, Indian and Chinese fare, said Mr Else's outlook was narrow.

"I think this is unfair," she said. "In the leased sector particularly we are seeing an incredible diversity in the range of food pubs sell, from top quality steak and chips to award-winning Thai food, Chinese, Indian and Mexican.

"I suggest tourists, locals and Mr Else go out and explore the huge range of food on offer in British pubs."

Pubs owned by Punch include the Great Eastern in North London, winner of the Publican Pub Food Ethnic Food Pub of the Year 2002, the Wing Wah in Oldbury, which serves Chinese food, the modern-British Rosa & Crown in Warwick and the George in Brighton, winner of the Publican Pub Food Vegetarian Food Pub of the Year 2002.

In his article Mr Else said the thing tourists like best about Britain was the people and said pubs were the best place to experience the "defining British characteristics" of passion, tolerance, hospitality and friendliness.

But he added that tourists were "bemused" by our licensing laws.