Serve up rays of Mallorcan sunshine

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Holidaymakers frequently return from their vacations wishing to continue enjoying the good wines experienced abroad. Here is an opportunity to serve...

Holidaymakers frequently return from their vacations wishing to continue enjoying the good wines experienced abroad. Here is an opportunity to serve holiday wines and, for those who have not visited the destination, give them a flavour of summer sun. The Balearic Islands of Spain, lying in the western Mediterranean, attract vast numbers of visitors ­ over seven million to the principal island, Mallorca, alone. Mallorca has two designated quality wine zones, the Spanish equivalent of "appellation contrôlée": Binissalem and tongue-twisting Plá i Llevant. The top producers have spared no expense in installing modern, cool fermentation equipment to ensure the white wines retain their natural fresh fruitiness while using quality wood to let the reds show their character. One enterprising idea to recreate holiday days would be to offer a selection of Mallorcan wines with local food, such as fish (groper and red mullet) and "sobrasada" (speciality sausage available from delicatessens). Wine drinking on Mallorca has a long tradition ­ from the turn of the 5th-century BC. The first reference to vine cultivation dates from 123 BC with the Roman invasion of the island. Binissalem lies in the centre of Mallorca. A district of hot, dry summers and short winters, sheltered from the cold damp sea winds to the north by the Alfabia mountains. On stony soil, rich in lime, two local red vines predominate: Manto Negro (meaning black mantle) and Callet. Most of the red wines are blends of these two varieties, together with Tempranillo, Monastrell and up to 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Some growers are also experimenting with Syrah and Merlot. Herederos de Can Ribas has a 98-acre vineyard planted in a former river. Maria Antonia Oliver maintains her family tradition for winemaking, which started in 1711. Two of her leading 2000 vintage reds are Sio de Ribas, with complex smoky fruit, and Ribas de Cabrera that shows rich yet soft fruity qualities with lovely balance, both made from Manto Negro, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The district, which was designated in 1991, grows many whites of which 70% must be the local Moll or Prensal Blanc. José L Ferrer is the island's largest producer. His wines include a Blanc de Blancs 2002 with an appealing Muscat aroma and light fruity dry taste, using 80% Moll. Far smaller, with just 20 acres, together with grapes bought-in, Nadal is a name to look for. Former gymnast, Esperanza Nadal completed her wine studies in Madrid. Nadal's Albaflor Crianza 2001 is a delicious red with engaging smoky fruit, aged one year in wood. Also look out for a powerful Merlot 2001, which technically has to be labelled table wine as it does not have the compulsory Manto Negro. Plá i Llevant was only designated as a wine district two years ago. The vineyards lie from the centre to the eastern side of Mallorca. On iron-rich soil, the fourth generation at Miquel Oliver have almost 25 acres around Petra and purchase grapes. As a fresh summer white, its Prensal has a hint of grapefruit on the aroma. The rich red 1999 Ses Ferritges has good depth, made 40% from Callet and 20% each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. For a special occasion, try the 100% Merlot ­ 2001 Aia ­ for subtle fruit and long length of flavour. For Chardonnay, look no further than Pere Seda based at Manacor, the island's second largest producer. The vibrant 2002 barrel-fermented is a rich white that suits fish and pork. Finally, for a Mallorcan wine to enjoy with cheese, try 2001 Negre from Son Bordils in Inca. An innovative producer, this raspberry-red, supple red is bottled unfiltered and has the promise to age six years.

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