Chefs hit back at guide's slur on rising cost of pub food

The new Good Pub Guide has been blasted by the trade for ignoring the success of pub food.

Alisdair Aird, editor of the guide, hit the headlines this week when he claimed it was "much more difficult to find value" in food pubs than it was two or three years ago.

He said the price of pub food had soared by 13 per cent since 2001, almost five times the rate of inflation.

He added that licensees were raising prices to compensate for small profit margins, caused by high beer prices. Mr Aird also wrote: "Many readers feel bulldozed into having and paying for something far fancier than the simple lunchtime snack they want. A sandwich can blow up into a vast baguette, trendify into a panini or evolve into ciabatta."

But Jonathan Webster, retail director at Nottingham-based brewer Hardys & Hansons, said: "In terms of our company it is a totally inaccurate view. We have shown like-for-like growth in the number of meals sold over the last five years. We sell 100,000 meals a week in our managed estate.

"This would not be happening if our customers thought that prices were unreasonable. We sell what our customers want.

"It's easy to sell food cheaply if you're not worried about quality. I think a lot of consumers out there see these meal deals for £1 to £1.50 and avoid them because they know the quality will be poor."

The Publican's Pub Food editor Kerry Rogan said Mr Aird's views were too narrow-minded. She said: "Value for money doesn't mean cheap. It is about quality. We should be pleased that the standard of pub food is rising all the time instead of criticising publicans. I think the beauty of pubs lies in their variety."

Prices have risen for a good reason, according to Anthony Robinson, licensee of the Inn at Farnborough, Catering Pub of the Year at the Publican Awards 2003.

"Higher prices reflect the fact you've got quality operators in the marketplace," he said.

"Two years ago a main meal here would have cost you £5. Now it is £13. But that is because it used to be something defrosted and now we are using good quality, well-sourced ingredients."

The Duke of Portland in Northwich, near Manchester, offers a two-course meal at lunchtimes for £4.95. Licensee Anthony Ryan said: "Quality value for money pub food is out there. Lots of operators do early specials. We get 60 to 70 people coming in every day for our two-course meal offer."

Mr Ryan also said that costs are growing because more pubs are turning to properly cooked food, which means employing more staff who are better trained.

He said: "The days are gone when an old lady from the village would come in and defrost some snacks. You employ trained chefs and hygiene-trained staff in the kitchens and that costs more."

Pictured: Award winners Anthony and Jo Robinson at the Inn at Farnborough say higher pub prices are reflecting better quality meals​

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