Food publicans fight back against criticism

Publicans from food-led pubs across the length and breadth of Britain are fighting back against claims that pub grub is just too pricey.

Last week Alistair Aird, editor of the Good Pub Guide, criticised pub food for high prices and being "too fancy".

He claimed prices had risen by 13 per cent in two years and added that customers "feel bulldozed into having, and paying for, something far fancier than the simple lunchtime snack they really want".

But according to new research by thePublican.com nearly two thirds of licensees think his claims were unfair.

Mr Aird's comments were widely reported in the national press and even prompted a leader in the Independent to advise pub-goers to "stick to the beer".

Now, however, publicans are fighting back to make sure the British public knows pub grub is the best it has ever been.

In thePublican.com's online poll of licensees 65 per cent thought the quality of pub food had improved and any price rises were justified.

And licensees from around the country were quick to make their voices heard on the website's discussion forum.

"Mr Aird seems to happily disregard some of the great pub food offers available to consumers," wrote Paul Barber.

"Perhaps he would be better researching and advising people as to where they can get great pub food at goof value, rather than just bemoaning the lack of it in the particular pubs he decided to visit."

Chef Tom Bridge, who has worked on several food guides, agreed. "Food guides just want publicity," he wrote. "Take no notice whatsoever and continue to make fresh, home-made British produce."

However, the Good Pub Guide did not concentrate only on the expensive pubs. Fat Cat in Sheffield was named bargain food pub of the year for its "incredibly cheap, enjoyable bar food".

And the Dartmoor Inn in Lydford, Devon, won the guide's accolade of dining pub of the year. Its "exceptional food, varied menus and delicious puddings" impressed the judges.

Related articles:​

Chefs hit back at guide's slur on rising cost of pub food (16 October 2003)