Fine and brandy

Brandy is synonymous with Christmas but there's more to the spirit than that. Ben McFarland looks at how cognac is driving the sector.

Just like cute little puppies and, more's the pity, irksome relatives, brandy is not just for Christmas - it's for life.

With more than a third of UK sales taking place over Christmas, brandy will forever be synonymous with festive fun, but to confine such a wonderful spirit to snifters, snaps and butter in front of The Great Escape would be a crime of the most heinous kind.

It may be the world's oldest spirit, but brandy has thrown off its cardigan and discarded its slippers in favour of something a lot more "á la mode" as they'd say in France.

Which brings us seamlessly on to cognac! That nearly every wine-making country boasts a brandy is not surprising considering it is, after all, a spirit made from distilled wine. But it is cognac, the so-called "king of brandies", that is making brandy cool again.

Quite how it has managed it remains a mystery, and the French will undoubtedly be shrugging their shoulders in bemusement. But what was once a tipple strongly associated with wood-panelled drawing rooms and after-dinner speaking is now at one with US style bars and gangsta rapping.

Busta Rhymes, P Diddy and various other hip-hop heroes have adopted premium cognac as a status symbol. Busta even wrote a song called Pass The Courvoisier (rumour has it that he prefers Hennessy but Courvoisier rhymed better) to the delight of the marketing boys and girls at Allied Domecq.

There's no guarantee that the hip-hop/cognac phenomenon will take off here in the same way but anecdotal evidence suggests that the right ripples are making their way across the pond as far as cognac brands are concerned.

Just in case it develops into a tidal wave of interest, Allied Domecq has expanded its premium range with the launch of a bartender-friendly Courvoisier Exclusif aimed exclusively at top-end outlets.

What are the initials?​

• V.S (VERY SPECIAL) or THREE STARS​

For cognacs in which the eau-de-vie is at least two-years-old. VSs are entry-level cognacs and are great for mixing with cola, lemonade or ginger ale.

V.S.O.P (VERY SUPERIOR OLD PALE) or RESERVE​

The description given to cognacs in which the youngest eau-de-vie is at least four-years-old. Mixing should
be reserved for top-notch
cocktails.

X.O or NAPOLEON or HORS D'AGE ​

Descriptors for cognacs in which the youngest eau-de-vie is at least six-years-old. Many will frown upon the idea of mixing this with anything.

The perfect mix​

Instead of swirling it around in snifters and commenting on its floral nose, African Americans are mixing cognac with a wide range of spirits and mixers.

Mixing cognac is not new, however. It was the original spirit in classic cocktails such as the Sazerac and Mint Julep and steps are being taken by all the major producers to again move VS cognacs away from the traditional snifter into long drinks.

Crispin Stevens of Pernod Ricard, owner of pub-favourite Martell VS, said that between 40 and 45 per cent of existing drinkers consume cognac in a mixed drink.

"We need to make cognac more accessible and educate people that there's more to cognac than just an after-dinner drink," he said. "Cognac is something that you can drink every day. Simple mixability is key as it's a wonderfully versatile spirit and if a publican can serve it long, it opens up a whole new opportunity."

Since Pernod Ricard took over the former Seagram brand a couple of years ago, it has focused heavily on developing Martell in the on-trade and at the forefront of its crusade has been the promotion of cognac as a top-notch mixer with either ginger ale, lemonade or cola.

For some innovative cognac concoctions visit www.cognac.fr or www.martell.com

How is cognac made?​

• Distillation​

Cognac is produced by the distillation of white wines harvested in the controlled appellation area. Young wines are distilled twice in a special "charentais" still that's been used for centuries to produce an "eau de vie".

Ageing​

Ageing, which transforms eau-de-vie into cognac, takes place in casks or barrels that hold between 270 and 450 litres. The natural humidity of the cellars, in which the casks are stored, is one of the determining factors in the maturing process that, to produce the top-notch stuff, can take decades.

Cognac may not be sold to the public unless it has been aged for at least two years, counting from the end of the period of distillation (April 1 the year after the grapes were harvested). The age of the cognac is shown as that of the youngest eau-de-vie used in the blend.

Blending​

The master blender holds the key to making cognac, blending eaux-de-vie of different ages and crus to produce each particular cognac. Rémy Martin XO Excellence, for example, is made from up to 350 eaux-de-vie from two of the most prestigious crus in the Cognac region - Grande Champagne (85 per cent) and Petite Champagne (15 per cent) - and even contains some of the Rémy family's private reserve.