Food File - Pub Review
The Mytton & Mermaid Hotel, Atcham, Shropshire.
This attractive 18th-century coaching inn derives its name from "Mad" Jack Mytton, a local playboy who inherited a fortune at 20 and died in a debtors' prison just 17 years later. Thankfully the pub's entertainment has been toned down since the days when Mytton would release a fox into the pub, closely followed by a pack of hounds and then himself on horseback. These days it is a friendly yet elegant eatery offering fine dining by candlelight within a traditional pub setting.
The venue is split into two areas: a seated restaurant area and a traditional pub bar where diners can whet their appetites with a pre-dinner pint or glass of wine. The bar offers real ales including Shropshire Lad, supplied by local brewer Wood's.
The strong wine list offers Old and New World: New Zealand Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc (£17.50) is an excellent choice. If you're not thirsty, you can perch on luxurious red leather sofas adjacent to the restaurant and sample fresh olives as your table is prepared.
The menu is not vast but the overall quality is superb, boosted by daily specials. Typical fare is gazpacho soup with crabmeat (£5.95), threeway lobster - lobster bisque, lobster risotto and lobster ravioli (£7.50) and grilled fillet of sea bass served with polenta cake, spinach, fine ratatouille and crispy pancetta (£14.95). Desserts include rhubarb confit (£5.50) and hot chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream (£5.95).
Staff are smart, friendly and bring zeal to their role. One waitress accidentally spilt an order over a customer - and was deservedly forgiven. It'd simply have added to the fun in "Mad" Jack's day.
PubChef rating (marks out of 10)Ambience: 8 Value for money: 7 Flavour factor: 8 Overall impression: 8
