Meet the Merchant - Yapp Bros, Mere, Wiltshire

Yapp Bros,

Mere, Wiltshire, BA12 6DY

Tel: 01747 860423

E-mail: sales@yapp.co.uk

No of wines on list: 300.

Yapp Brothers was founded in 1969 by dentist Robin Yapp, but it was less a clinical business decision and more the result of a hobby that simply grew out of control. Every summer, Yapp and his brother would take off to France and go buying wine by the case. Robin Yapp's son, Jason, who joined the company in 1993, gives the answers.

Areas of speciality:

"We started as specialists in the Rhône and the Loire because we felt they were totally underrated areas. Now, for the same reason, we've branched out into Provence and Roussillon, with a bit of Alsace and Champagne."

So you avoid the big name regions?

"We're a regional specialist. We do no Bordeaux and very little Burgundy.

Which areas/vintages are exciting you at the moment?

"From 1998 to 2001 the vintages in the southern Rhône were great. The 2001s are a golden buying opportunity, but they're selling out fast."

Anyone you'd recommend?

"Meffre in Gigondas and Lucien Michel at Vieux Donjon in Châteauneuf du Pape."

And in the Loire?

"2003 was a very exciting vintage for the Chenins and Cabernet Francs. People often see these as a bit green, but 2003 was so hot that they're like New World wines - ripe and supple and for immediate drinking."

Outside these areas?

"Christine Campadieu is making great stuff in Collioure in the Midi from old vines on terraces with very low yields."

What makes a good wine list?

"Simplicity and breadth. A short good wine list, with wines that complement the menu is better than a huge, complicated one. People who try to cover all the bases are mad."

Pick a Sunday roast wine off your list

"Côtes du Rhône Villages from Rasteau by St Gayan. It's a big, dense, coarse-textured wine. Grenache-based, it's a chest-thumping red." (£6.45+VAT)

And for difficult dishes like curry or fusion?

"A clean Alsace Pinot Blanc from Charles Schléret 2002." (£7.50+VAT)

Three of your wines every pub should have:

1. Saumur Blanc 2003 @ £4.50/bottle ex VAT. Lovely versatile clean, fruity Loire Chenin with a long, dry finish and no hard edges.

2. Cotes du Roussillon Tradition 2001: Ferrer-Ribiere @ £6.50 ex VAT. Dark, brooding, sunkissed Syrah/Carignan/Grenache blend.

3. Saumur Champigny: Domaine Filliatreau 2002 @ £6.75. Modern Cabernet Franc with juicy berry fruit and supple tannins.

Losh's tip

Chateau Valcombe Signature 2001, Côtes du Ventoux Lush, plummy, succulent wine full of red fruits with a hint of chocolate. Beautifully ripe, but never flabby or over-sweet. A great example of how good Grenache-based wine can be when old vines coincide with a top-class vintage. For hearty stews or joints. £5.45+VAT