Time to follow Sheps' lead on PGI
Something unusual happened last week. Ian Dixon, production director at Shepherd Neame of Faversham, sent me a friendly letter, pointing out a mistake in my column of 12 May.
The occasional blip, error or cup of Horlicks in this column are normally greeted by letters, phone calls and e-mails phrased in the form of "You useless nose wipe, why don't you drown yourself in a vat of Carling Black Label". So it was a relief to be told of an error in a perfectly pleasant manner. Ian pointed out that I was wrong to say that the Czech brewer Budweiser Budvar is the only European brewer to hold a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) since Scottish & Newcastle relinquished its accreditation for Newcastle Brown ale when it closed its brewery in Newcastle.
Shepherd Neame holds two PGIs for Kentish Ale and Strong Kentish Ale, with strength bands of 3.5% to 4.9% and 5% to7%. This enables the brewery to print the PGI emblem on the labels of two of its famous cask and bottled beers, Bishop's Finger and Spitfire.
Shepherd Neame has held the PGIs since June 1996 and was the first brewery in Britain to be given the accreditation, a guarantee that a drink or food is made only in its place of origin. Ian told me that Ruddles was later given a PGI for Rutland Bitter, but that has lapsed since the brewery closed and the Ruddles brands are now brewed by Greene King.
Ian sent me copies of the annual checks made by the EU and I am impressed by the methodical manner in which they are carried out. When the company first applied for PGI status, the EU's investigation said: "These beers are produced exclusively at the Faversham brewery and have been produced using local ingredients since the late 17th century. To qualify for use of these names (Kentish Ale and Strong Kentish Ale) the beers are brewed within the defined boundaries of Faversham, Kent.
"Water for brewing is extracted from a 200ft artesian well and the beers are brewed using traditional methods and a traditional strain of yeast. The hops are grown in Kent; these are specifically Target, Challenger and Goldings hops."
Brewing Research International in Surrey, acting for the EU, audits the brewery annually and the investigation is remarkably strict. There are checks to ensure that brewing water is still drawn from the brewery's own well "from the green sand layer below the chalk". All the hops have to be grown in the county and if Target, Challenger and Goldings are not available, the brewery is allowed to use other Kentish varieties, but must revert to the defined hops as soon as sufficient supplies can be obtained.
The specification lays down the type of yeast that can be used in fermentation and the methods of brewing, boiling and fermentation. Where cask beer is concerned, "the fermented wort is treated with a further portion of East Kent Goldings and is then racked into casks".
Finally, the report says the beers must have a "strong aroma of hops, a balanced, full bitter flavour, golden brown in colour with a light, creamy head when poured".
As well as awarding the PGI certificates, the EU also protects the Shepherd Neame beers by cracking down on products that claim to be Kentish ales, but which are brewed outside the county. Such fraudulent beers have been withdrawn as a result of EU activity.
All British brewers which produce beers to authentic recipes in their regions of origin should give serious consideration to applying for PGI status. As the grip of the global brewers intensifies, it becomes ever more urgent to stress the importance of traditional brewing recipes before we all drown in a sea of American rice beer and a Belgian concoction known colloquially as "the wife beater".
There is more to beer than cheap ingredients, chemical props and computer controls, all given a fake aura of authenticity by slick and expensive advertising. Shepherd Neame is just one of hundreds of British brewers that stand by traditional brewing methods.
If Kentish Ales deserve PGI status, then so too do Scottish, Yorkshire, Lancashire, Midlands, Welsh, London and West Country beers. Contact the EU without delay and welcome its inspectors with open arms.
