Tricks of the Trade - Secrets of a Good Stock

PubChef asks chefs the secret of a good stock

"The most important factor in a good fish stock is the quality of the fish bones. If you start with a good raw ingredient, you'll get a good end product and I think that applies across the board. We request turbot, brill and lemon sole bones from our supplier - real premium quality."

Paul Ockleford, chef patron, the Red Lion, Milton Bryan, Bedfordshire

"The secret is good bones and a good colour in your mirepoix. I also find that the longer you can cook it, the better. We've got a few other tricks up our sleeve, but I'm not willing to divulge those!"

Jamie Guy, sous chef, the Walpole Arms, Itteringham, Norfolk

"The best bones to use for a dark stock are veal bones. They should be roasted to a good, even colour. Always add cold water to start with as this lifts the fat. Caramelise your vegetables well and add plenty of thyme, rosemary, garlic and fresh tomatoes. Never boil the stock because this ruins it."

Simon Cadge, chef proprietor, the Crown, Broughton, Cambridgeshire

"It's a long process to achieve a good stock, but once you've made it, it can be used for so many different purposes. Having roasted the bones, either veal, chicken or lamb, I roast the vegetables for my mirepoix in a stockpot. I then add tomato purée and red wine, followed by the bones. I don't add the fat from the bones because I find this means more skimming. Having added water so the bones are just covered, I drop in six pig's trotters. They have a natural gelatine inside which means that the stock doesn't have to be reduced as much. You can use calves' feet as well, but the trotters are cheaper. Bring to the boil, skimming continuously and then lower the heat and simmer for 36 hours."

Dan Hibble, head chef, the Carved Angel, Earls Colne, Essex