Pub Review - Portobello Gold, Notting Hill, London
Almost destroyed by a fire in October 2004, Portobello Gold has risen from the ashes to re-establish itself as one of Notting Hill's premier eateries.
The Portobello Road venue suffered damage to its kitchen and several rooms in last autumn's blaze. But just six months on and proprietor Mike Bell has restored the Portobello Gold to glittering form.
The venue blends British pub with café cool. The bar area features flagstone flooring, a stunning pinewood varnished bar and bronze ceiling fans. Step through to the dining area and you are greeted by tropical shrubbery more akin to west Africa than west London. The tropical influences on the pub's décor appear to have extended to the kitchen, which offers a cosmopolitan menu created by head chef David Goodman.
Customers can choose seafood combos to share (£30) from Japan, Thailand, California, Louisiana or the Mediterranean. Each platter is themed by country with the Japan dish featuring sashimi salmon with Wasabi, pickled pink ginger and Teriyaki sauce.
From the main menu highlights include Thai moules. The dish tastes fresh, succulent and is buoyed by a spicy ginger, chilli and lemongrass-infused sauce. Linguini pasta with calamari, mussels and prawns was also a seafood-inspired success. Other more unusual dishes include an oyster shooter served in a shot glass with salsa, horseradish, Tabasco parmesan and lime (£2.55) and smoked eel fillets on cracked cannelinni beans with basil and creamed horseradish (£5.95).
The staff are warm, friendly and contribute to an enjoyable meal. Traditionalists might argue that with such heady international inspiration the Portobello Gold has little in common with a British pub. But if you're willing to adopt a more pragmatic approach you'll discover a restaurant/café/pub hybrid that successfully takes fine British ingredients and adds some Continental style.
PubChef Rating (out of 10)
Ambience 9, Value for money 7, Flavour factor 8, Overall Impression 8
BEERS: Draught Hoegaarden, Leffe Blonde, Ruddles County, Spitfire and Guinness.
MAIN COURSES: From £5.50 to £13.25
WINES ON LIST: 11 whites, 20 reds, 1 rosé, 2 sweet and 7 sparkling or Champagnes. Selections include Rioja Montecillo (£15.50, Spain) and Sauvignon Nautilus (£18.50, New Zealand).
ANOTHER THING: The Portbollo Gold was a favourite of the Hells Angels when it opened in the '80s. The pub was also visited by former US president Bill Clinton on a trip to the UK in 2000.
