Tricks of the Trade - Risotto

They say that the true test of a good restaurant is its risotto. We ask pub chefs their tips for creating the perfect rice dish.

"The secret is to use the right kind of rice. I use carnaroli. It's also vital to have a good stock."

Matt Tebbutt, chef/proprietor, the Foxhunter, Nantyderry, near Abergavenny, Monmouthshire

"Risottos feature quite highly on our menu and they are difficult to get right. You should never leave a risotto and should always keep it moving. The stock shouldn't be too heavy or rich or the risotto will become claggy when the butter is added. Use plenty of room temperature butter and take the risotto off the heat before adding it. Once added, the risotto should never go back to the stove."

Bob Parkinson, head chef, the Swan, Southrop, Gloucestershire

"At the moment we're trying to cook risotto in a different way by placing it in a tray and braising it, which gives it a really creamy texture. We are currently serving a smoked haddock risotto, which we top with grilled salmon and a crispy tikka masala crust. It's like a kedgeree but using arborio risotto rice and it's selling really well."

Paul Smith, head chef, the Fountain Inn, near Tenbury Wells, Worcestershire

"We currently have a tiger prawn and black olive risotto on the menu, topped with a smoked salmon fillet and poached egg. Our smoked salmon sales were falling but this has made it really popular again. The trick is to keep the risotto moving to prevent the rice burning. Wait until the rice is translucent before adding the stock. I add the stock a ladle at a time and let the rice absorb it before adding more. I also add some wine and brandy."

Adrian Walker, head chef, Staunton Arms, Staunton-in-the-Vale, Nottinghamshire