The Surgery - What can we do to impress the Michelin inspectors?

Dear Surgery: I think our pub has reached a high enough standard to be aiming for a Michelin star. What standards are required to achieve this and, more importantly, how do we spot the Michelin inspectors?

The Surgery says: In recent years, Michelin has awarded stars to British pubs in its annual guide. This is certainly a departure for the organisation, which used only to award top-end restaurants. The first pub to gain a prestigious Michelin star was the Stagg at Titley, Herefordshire.

Steve Reynolds, chef/proprietor of the Stagg, says: "Michelin is famously secretive and, unlike guides such as the AA, there seems to be no set criteria to which they operate. I don't think anybody really knows what their inspectors are looking for. They don't appear to be looking for a formula, but they seem to be looking for individuality.

In my experience, the inspectors never give anything away when they visit. They check all the details and perhaps chat about other new pubs or restaurants in the area worth their attention, but never actually discuss what they've eaten. Historically, they were supposed to be interested in silver cutlery and white linen tablecloths, but we don't have any of that so we were obviously a departure for them. The last time I spoke to an inspector, he talked about value for money, and said that they are looking at prices and how chefs are sourcing local produce as much as quality these days.

As for spotting an inspector, you never know when they are there. Sometimes they dine alone, although often they're with other people, and they try to blend in. One thing I would say, though, is that even when they dress down, they always have really shiny shoes and they always seem to be driving VW cars - usually Passat estates, but sometimes Golfs!"