Pub Review - The Albion, Clifton Village, Bristol
In the heart of the city's most affluent area, the Albion describes itself as a "public house and dining rooms" and is, essentially, Bristol's first serious food-driven pub.
The Grade-II listed, 17th Century coaching inn has been stylishly and sympathetically refurbished by co-owners Miles Johnson, Ian Rayner and Owain George.
The interior has the trademark gastro look - National Trust, heritage-style paint, reclaimed wooden floors, bookcases, leather armchairs, chapel chairs, gold-edged mirrors, fresh flowers - and a long farmhouse table by the open kitchen has become a self-styled "chef's table", with people booking in advance.
Chefs Toby Gritten and Jake Platt both have an impressive list of top Bristol restaurants on their CVs and this shows in the presentation and seasonality of the menus, not to mention the use of top West Country suppliers.
All-day snacks include pickled quails' eggs, salt-roasted nuts and home-made pork scratchings, while a weekend brunch menu ranges from toasted cereals with summer fruits, honey and home-made live yoghurt (£5.50) to baked goose egg with hot smoked Leon chorizo and watercress Hollandaise (£7.50).
Lunchtime dishes tend to be less than £10 - pot-roast chicken with new-season garlic, white wine and parsley (£9.50) and home-cured and artisan charcuterie with grilled bread, olives and pickles (£8.50). On the a la carte evening menu, the starter of British shellfish, Somerset cider, parsley and cream (£6.50) is a deliciously fresh bowl of razor clams, cockles and local mussels.
Stand-out mains include an enormous piece of skate wing with brown butter, parsley mash, capers and meat juices (£13.50).
The Albion also offers the "sharing" option - so popular in London - with both Cornish fish stew and côte de boeuf on the menu for two people (£16 per person).
Early signs show the Albion is already a firm favourite with the well-heeled locals of Clifton.
PubChef rating (out of 10)
Ambience 8, Value for money 7
Flavour factor 8, Overall impression 8
BEERS: Three real ales on draught (Cotleigh Tawny, Butcombe Blond, Butcombe Bitter) and three real draught ciders (Addlestones and Thatchers).
MAIN COURSES: From £10 to £50 (fruits de mer for two people).
WINES ON LIST: 16 whites, 16 reds, one rosé, four Champagnes and sparkling wines. Range includes Windy Peak Sangiovese 2003 (£24).
ANOTHER THING: Co-owner Miles is a former professional rugby player and F1 driver Jenson Button's personal trainer.
