Pub Review - The Bugle, Hamble, Hampshire
For two years, the future of the Bugle, an ancient hostelry celebrated by the sailing fraternity the world over, was in jeopardy due to the land behind it being sold off for housing development.
The Bugle too looked destined to become homes, then to be transformed into a restaurant.
But, to everyone's delight, it has remained a pub; the beautifully remodelled 16th Century heart of the original Bugle opened in June.
It was bought by the team behind the excellent White Star Tavern and Dining Rooms in Southampton. With the developer renovating the exterior fabric of the Grade-II listed property, White Star owner Matt Boyle restored the historic interior to its former glory using traditional materials and methods. Today's re-incarnation displays impressive green oak beams and wall timbers, stripped-back brick fireplaces, natural flagstone floors and polished floorboards.
It is not big, but the atmosphere is relaxed and informal throughout. The solid oak bar area throngs with drinkers and diners on popular sailing days while away from the hustle and bustle is the understated main dining area. "The Captain's Table" on the first floor is an intimate private dining room replete with a long oak table seating 12 and views of the narrow village street.
Space and a wide-ranging clientele dictate the style and ambition of the food operation. Fears of the Bugle becoming another trendy gastro pub with fancy, expensive food have been laid to rest. Classic pub dishes are prepared from
scratch using fresh produce and given a modern twist by former City Rhodes chef Andy Freeman.
Sit at the bar with a pint of Deuchars IPA and nibble on a pork pie with piccalilli (£4.95) or tuck into a traditional half-pint of prawns or giant lunchtime sandwich including steak with horseradish and watercress (£6.95). More substantial meals take in a creamy, well-cooked roast pepper and goats' cheese risotto with rocket salad (£7.50) or thick-cut home-baked ham with two eggs and decent chips (£7.50).
The chalkboard and evening menus offer more inventive dishes like spiced king prawns with rocket and sweet chilli (£6.50) and calves' liver with pancetta mash and sun-dried tomatoes (£11.95). The short, global list of wines and Champagnes are sourced from Bibendum.
Add the enviable location - a winding street to the quay and views of boats on the Hamble - and the new-look Bugle should prove a huge success.
PubChef rating (out of 10)
Ambiance 9, Value for money 8
Flavour factor 7, Overall impression 8
BEERS: Courage Best & Directors and Caledonian Deuchars IPA on draught
MAIN COURSES: From £7.50 to £14.95 (lunchtime sandwiches from £4.50 to £6.95).
WINES ON LIST: 11 white, 12 reds, one rosé, four Champagnes; and nine wines by the glass.
ANOTHER THING: The Bugle serves superb Illy coffee and food is available all day at weekends. The pub is hosting events during the Sea Britain festival, 24/25 September.
