On The Grapevine

With Philip Goodband MW, Constellation Europe.​

The person submitting the 'Star Question' as chosen by Philip each month will receive a bespoke training session for their outlet run by Constellation Europe.

Send your wine questions to Philip Goodband c/o The Publican, Ludgate House, 245 Blackfriars Road, London SE1 9UY or via email: wine@thepublican.com.

Philip Goodband is not only a Master of Wine but also has real 'hands on' experience at every level of the wine industry, with a special interest in the on-trade. His achievements include responsibility for the launch and development of the top performing Stowells brand and he was managing director of Grants of St James's.

This week's star question comes from Alvin Michaels​

Why does Burgundy vary?​

• Why is it that there is such a huge difference in qualities from the same vineyards in Burgundy? There are some people who can produce some of the best wines in the world, in my opinion. On the other hand, there are suppliers to the trade producing wines which are ordinary or poor but still pricey.​
  Alvin Michaels, the Bricklayers Arms, Flaunden, Herts​

Burgundy is one of the most complex and difficult wine regions to buy from. It is small, with a huge world demand, but also has suffered greatly from the French succession and inheritance laws. The result in the vineyard is a patchwork of very small individual holdings, meaning many growers have to sell their grapes to merchants who then market under brand and appellation names. As times and methods change we have seen some consolidation, enabling better merchants to gain more continuity of supply and to sell at more consistent quality levels.

Cabernet Sauvignon advice​

• We are currently looking at suppliers of Cabernet Sauvignons from traditional vineyards such as Bordeaux, Medocs cru Bourgeous and Chateau Moucaillou and they are selling well. At the same time, you have the equivalent Cabernet Sauvignons produced in the New World, which are highly extracted with little or no depth. Can you please give us your professional opinion?​
  Alvin Michaels​

The comparison of wine styles is very subjective. The Bordeaux wines mentioned have a cask and/or bottle age of some four years, which for a lighter vintage such as 2001 is fine as the higher acidity and tannins in the wine will now be at a point which marries well with your chef's creations. The richer New World styles are not all the result of over-extraction but are drinkable earlier. They're made to have richer flavours and more up-front fruit, and need dishes which match this. This is more a question of style than quality. Stick to brands and producers with good track records.

What's up and coming?​

• I am interested in stocking wines from up and coming countries and regions. I had a Uruguayan red recently and it is something I would consider stocking. Prices will always be good until they become fashionable. What is the next up and coming region, and is there any way of spotting them in advance?​
  Shane Feeney, the Edgar Wallace, Blackfriars, London​

As to which is the next up and coming region it depends on who you believe! There is much hype, a lot of wine competing for space and the prices on offer are very competitive. My tip would be to look at the country league tables often published in the trade press and spot countries showing big percentage increases. I've no doubt you will also be checking out the deals being offered on the top five countries such as Australia or Chile.