On the Grapevine
With Philip Goodband MW, Constellation Europe.
The person submitting the 'Star Question' as chosen by Philip each month will receive a bespoke training session for their outlet run by Constellation Europe.
Send your wine questions to Philip Goodband c/o The Publican, Ludgate House, 245 Blackfriars Road, London SE1 9UY or via email: wine@thepublican.com.
Philip Goodband is not only a Master of Wine but also has real 'hands on' experience at every level of the wine industry, with a special interest in the on-trade. His achievements include responsibility for the launch and development of the top performing Stowells brand and he was managing director of Grants of St James's.
This week, all questions come from Mike Smith, The Three Compasses, London, N8, so he receives our prize.
What to stock
- Which grape varieties are "must haves?"
Customers have become much more comfortable with grape types, and a combination of these and popular countries of origin really can work wonders for sales. My white "must stock" selection for your outlet's clientele would include easy drinking chenin blanc from South Africa. Fashionable Italian pinot grigio and chardonnay in both oaked and unoaked styles are currently flying. I recommend an Australian and a Californian, both New World and very different. sauvignon blanc from Chile, New Zealand or France can provide a "zippy" foil. The balance of the list could then include old favourites such as really dry muscadet.
Reds offer a wide choice but "must stock" varieties are led by merlot, a classic softer style from Old World France but also excellent from Chile. Firmer bodied cabernet sauvignon and rich Australian shiraz are also hugely popular while Spanish tempranillo is a lighter fruitier style. Blends such as Californian cabernet - zinfandel offer the chance to introduce newer varieties in a low risk way. I suggest highlighting styles on your blackboard.
Open for business
- Is there a foolproof and safe way to open Champagne and sparkling wine?
What a waste to see good wine foaming onto the floor! Avoidance only takes a little confidence and knowledge so try this on your staff. First golden rule: ALL sparkling wines must be served well chilled as this reduces the size of the bubbles and manageability when opening. Second rule: after removing the foil hold the cork firmly with a cloth while untying the wire muzzle. Third rule: with the bottle facing at an angle AWAY from everyone continue to hold the cork firmly while twisting the base of the bottle. As the cork starts to come out KEEP HOLD until the gas escapes as a "smoke". I realise there is no bang but your staff can impress customers by showing how expert they are!
Recognition reminder
- How do you recognise a corked wine?
In reality there is no simple shortcut for staff unless they have been given practical guidance and have been exposed to a considerable number of corked wines. It's a real problem. Even after I have trained staff there is still a matter of confidence and speed of service to consider. Corked wine is not a problem of crumbly cork but is a taint due to a kind of mould being imparted into the wine by infected corks and possibly other badly stored bottling materials during the processing. Cork manufacturers have been working hard and the incidence is dropping. There are a number of alternatives, notably synthetic stoppers and screw caps.
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