26-30 of the top 30 Gastro Pubs
The White Horse, The Pot Kiln, The Goose, The Crooked Bilet and The Horse & Groom.
26 The White Horse
1-3 Parson's Green, London SW6 4UL. Tel: 0207 7362115, www.whitehorsesw6.com
Mark Dorber has created quite a name for himself at the helm of the White Horse over the past 25 years.
Dorber is a renowned beer and food guru and has been communicating his passion to customers since opening the White Horse. Every dish, from starters through to desserts, comes with a suitable beer recommendation, alongside a potential wine selection. And he has plans for yet more beer-and-food-matching activity at both the White Horse and his other pub, the Anchor in Suffolk, which he has been running for just over a year.
Dorber has blended the modern with the traditional at the White Horse and the polished mahogany bar and wall panels, flagstone floors and open fires sit nicely with contemporary lighting and modern art.
He also invests heavily in training as he sees great customer service as vital to any successful pub.
Behind the scenes at...The White Horse
Owner/licensee: Mark Dorber (Mitchells & Butlers licensee)
Head chef: Andrew Bellew
Turnover: £3m
Wet:dry split: 80:20
Covers for diners: 32 covers in the nonsmoking restaurant downstairs; 55 upstairs; 85 in the pub and 90 outside
Best-selling dishes: Fish cakes, fish & chips, sausage & mash and rib-eye steaks.
On the menu: Hoegaarden mussels steamed with thyme & garlic (£6.75/£10.25); Morrocan fish stew with aromatic cous cous (£10.25); hot smoked pheasant, pancetta jus, winter vegetables and mash (£12.75); steak, porter & oyster pie (£10.25).
Top tip: "Don't do it unless you love pubs. You have to respect the traditional role of a pub, not just set up a restaurant on the cheap."
27 The Pot Kiln
Frisham, nr Yattendon, Berkshire. Tel:01635 201366, www.potkiln.co.uk
Mike Robinson can hardly believe his luck - not only has it been his dream to own his own pub, but he's managed to land himself the Pot Kiln, where he enjoyed his very first pint as a lad.
"We've been opened for a year now," says Mike, "and have exceeded all predictions. We are on track to do a lot better next year: we managed to take more this January than we did in July last year."
Mike has several tips for success, including cooking as much game as possible. "It's excellent value for money," he says.
He also aims to provide great service by attracting better quality staff by offering to pay individuals better wages.
"It has obviously helped having had a television series made about the setting up of the business." says Mike.
"But if you offer real quality, local food that's cooked beautifully, and you charge reasonable prices, people will always come."
Behind the scenes at...The Pot Kiln
Owner/licensees: Mike Robinson
Head chef: Mike Robinson
Turnover: £500,000 to £600,000
Wet:dry split: 30:70
Covers a week: 500
Covers for diners: 50
Best-selling dishes: Wood pigeon, bacon & black pudding salad; slow-cooked rabbit with rosemary and garlic; Valhorna chocolate fondant.
On the menu: Terrine of wild local muntjac with chestnuts & homemade chutney (£6.50); braised local mutton en crepinette with onion gravy (£14.95); Faisin au vin - pheasent in red wine with bacon and baby onions (£14.95); sticky-toffee pudding (£5.50)
Top tip: "Eat, breath and sleep your food and drink costs."
Best business ideas/innovation: "I've started a cookery school and a catering arm."
28 The Goose
Britwell Salome, Oxfordshire OX49 5LG. Tel:01491 612304
Michael North and partner Imogen Young have just parted company with the Michelin-starred Goose in search of a pub of their own.
They are in the process of finalising a deal to buy an Oxfordshire pub, but Imogen says that they will miss the Goose. "It's been a fantastic experience for us, and getting the Michelin star last year was the biggest highlight of all," she says.
"It's been our little baby, but everyone who has worked here over the years has also been willing to put in 100%. It says a lot that regular guests, who we consider friends, always ask after previous staff."
And of course, the food has also been part of the success. "We serve modern British food cooked very simply but very well. There's no pretensions about it and most of the produce comes from Oxfordshire. We'll do the same in our own place."
At the time of going to press, new owner, Lisa Inglis, was due to reopen the Goose this month.
Behind the scenes at...The Goose
Owner/licensees: Michael North and Imogen Young
Head chef: Michael North
Turnover: £7000 to £10,000 per week
Wet:dry split: 35:65
Covers a week: 250 to 300
Covers for diners: 45
Best-selling dishes: Sticky-toffee pudding, braised lamb shoulder with potatoes, creamed spinach and roasting juices.
New for 2006: "We wanted to open our own place and with the new owners coming in we felt it was the right time to move on. We're currently finalising a deal for another pub in Oxfordshire. From day one at the Goose we wanted a relaxed feel where you could sit and have a beer by the fire, or eat excellent food in an informal environment. Wherever we go next we will do exactly the same."
29 The Crooked Billet
Newlands Lane, Stoke Row, Henley On Thames RG9 5PU. Tel: 01491 681048, www.thecrookedbillet.co.uk
The Crooked Billet has been around since 1642 and folklore goes that it was once the hideout of the notorious highwayman Dick Turpin, who was romantically attached to the landlord's daughter.
But the Crooked Billet, tucked well off the beaten track, down a narrow winding lane, was very much on its last legs when owner Paul Clerehugh used money from a bank loan for a car to save it.
Repeat custom, word of mouth and landing on the front page of every newspaper in 1998 as host to actress Kate Winslet's wedding reception has all led to a flourishing business.
"What we do here is good and the service is great so people keep coming back," says Paul. "Our food is predominantly British but the whole local produce thing is getting out of hand. I'm not going to spoil the menu by limiting myself. I'll use plenty of stuff from all over the world to make the menu enticing and sexy."
Behind the scenes at...The Crooked Billet
Owner/licensee: Paul Clerehugh
Head chef: Remy Jolly
Turnover: c£1m
Wet:dry split: 33:67
Covers a week: 1,000
Covers for diners: 70 inside, 40 outside
Best-selling dishes: Smoked haddock, poached egg & mustard sauce; pink carved venison, haggis & juniper jus.
On the menu: Roast local duckling with Victoria plum sauce (£16); roast rack of Ipscleu lamb with rosemary jus (£17.80).
Top tip: "Keep it informal - friendly service is far more important than skill alone."
New for 2006: "I have got fantastic staff led by Louise Jackson, but there is a whole team ready to move on. I want to continue working with them so am planning to open another place later this year."
30 The Horse & Groom
The Green, Rushlake Green, East Sussex TN21 9QE. Tel: 014
