4 The Angel Inn

By David Hancock

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags Gastro pub Public house Restaurant Inn

Despite southern pretenders to the title, the Angel Inn was the UK's first gastro pub, says David Hancock, though its late, pioneering host didn't...

Despite southern pretenders to the title, the Angel Inn was the UK's first gastro pub, says David Hancock, though its late, pioneering host didn't like the term

The Angel Inn Hetton, North Yorkshire. Tel:01756 730236, www.angelhetton.co.uk

To see his magnificent Angel Inn one nothc above London's famous Eagle in this poll would have made the late Denis Watkins smile. People who think the Eagle started the gastro pub revolution when it opened in 1991 are misguided. It was Denis and Juliet Watkins who pioneered the combination of restaurant-quality food with informal pub/brasserie ambience when they bought the Angel in 1983. They guided a business that had been in receivership into an esteemed food pub and 23 years on, now under Juliet and chef/director Bruce Elsworth, this Yorkshire institution remains one of Britain's top dining pubs: Denis really disliked the phrase "gastro pub".

Step into this 400-year-old drovers' inn and the mix of styling reflects the history of the building. Old settles, a kitchen range, blazing log fires, polished wood tables, walls covered with prints and paintings: the whole place glows with care and attention to detail. Move on into the restaurant and the high-backed chairs and crisp linen deliver a style that is more refined and elegant, yet without losing sight of the fact that it is a pub, and people are here for the relaxed, casual style as much as for the very good food.

Cooking is modern-British style with Mediterranean undertones and the food, especially, really lifts the place well above the local norm. There's a short, well-constructed restaurant carte, an inventive bar-brasserie menu, a host of blackboard specials, and a wide range of produce made on the premises - for example black pudding and oak-smoked chicken. The commitment to local and regional produce is as strong as ever, taking in Bolton Abbey lamb, Holme Farm venison and top-notch meats and sausages supplied by Ilkley butcher David Lishman.

Denis's passion was wine and the in-depth list is as impressive as it is incredible value for money, with numerous French and Italian bottles imported direct from small estates, and there are 20 wines offered by the glass. Before his death in 2004, Denis saw the completion of his Wine Cave (shop, tutored tastings, advice) and five luxury en-suite bedrooms in a converted barn across the road from the pub: the icing on the cake for this revered Yorkshire pub.

Behind the scenes at...The Angel Inn

Owners/licensees:​ Juliet Watkins & Bruce Elsworth

Head chef:​ Bruce Elsworth

Wet:dry split:​ 30:70

Covers a week:​ 400 winter; 1,000 summer

Covers for diners:​ 110 plus 35 outside

Best-selling dishes:​ Little moneybags - seafood in crispy pastry with lobster sauce; confit of lamb shoulder, thyme and garlic mash, spinach and lamb jus

Top tip/why successful:​ "Be honest with yourself, take nothing for granted and try and keep one step ahead of the competition. Invest in staff training to keep standards high."

Best business ideas/innovation:​ "Opening the bedrooms and Wine Cave as it has broadened the Angel's appeal and clientele."

On the menu...

Provençale fish soup, £5.75 Roast Holme Farm venison, horseradish rosti, juniper and red wine sauce, £16.95 Pear and frangipane tart, £4.50

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