Alter Egon
Renowned as a restaurant critic, Egon Ronay's latest guide includes 300 gastro pubs. He talks to Jo Bruce about the sector that he believes has had the biggest impact on the catering scene in the last 50 years
What do you like about gastro pubs?
In restaurants you are surrounded by formalities. In gastro pub you can sit where you want, you don't have to put on a suit or tie and the atmosphere is more relaxed and friendly. It is really the difference between going to the theatre and to the cinema.
Gastro pubs are like the bistro food used to be in France or a good family trattoria in Italy. They have a surprisingly high standard of cooking. Altogether they are the biggest change in the catering scene in my 50 years as a restaurateur and critic.
What sort of food do you think gastro pubs should focus on?
You dont necessarily expect this, that and the other. So long as the chef does what he does and he does it well, that is the important thing. But I do think that game is something that more pub chefs could capitalise on.
Would you prefer to run a gastro pub or a restaurant?
I would rather run a gastro pub. The atmosphere is more homely and it is a more natural way of eating. You "go" to a restaurant, but you can "pop" into a pub.
When does a pub become a restaurant?
It is a technical judgement not a value judgement. It's not a gastro pub if it doesn't serve draft beer. This helps ensure the pub atmosphere. I think that many successful pubs are tempted to increase the seating capacity for the diners but they often do so at the expense of the bar area. But by doing that there is less of a pub atmosphere, which is a danger. Many owners just don't realise how very important that pub atmosphere is.
What is your view on the smoking ban in pubs?
It isn't a very fashionable view, but I think the whole smoking ban business has got out of hand. Ten years ago they should have introduced stricter regulations about ventilation in pubs and restaurants.
There are some restaurants where people smoke but you can't smell it because the ventilation is so good. If stricter regulations on ventilation had been introduced, then you would not have had any problem at all with smoking in public.
Do you enjoy beer and food?
I enjoy a pint with food. A beer is great with dishes such as steak and kidney pie.
Have you any favourite gastro-pub dishes?
I recently enjoyed black pudding and foie gras. The black pudding was home made and it was a marvellous combination. I wouldn't have believed it.
What do you think of the prices in gastro pubs generally?
Thats difficult. How can you tell people not to put their prices up when they can get more? But it is a serious danger when they start getting into the price range of well-known restaurants. Why go to a gastro pub when you can spend the same amount at Le Gavroche? I think £20 is too much for a main course at a pub.
What do you think of the term 'gastro pub'?
When I first heard the word it jarred on me. It is not an ideal word. But it has become an acceptable word in our language and is probably going to be in the Oxford English Dictionary. I wish them luck in defining it!
What tip would you give pub staff about customer service?
The most important thing for staff to remember is to smile. If they don't smile it puts customers off. Smiling helps create a more relaxed atmosphere.
Do you prefer blackboards or paper menus in gastro pubs?
I prefer blackboards. It is much more flexible and there is more informality about the menu. It also gives a sense that the menu is changed often.
How long should a wine list be in a gastro pub?
I hate it when they bring those big albums to the table. It is absurd. A very elaborate wine list is only useful for people who know about wines. I think having about 25 wines
adds to the informality and ease of the occasion.
