Disunity in the beer world
There was a bit of a hullabaloo surrounding the launch of Coors Sub Zero two weeks ago. Such a launch normally only reaches the pages of the trade press, but newspapers from the London Metro to the Daily Telegraph were all taken by this new innovation.
In case you missed the story, Coors Sub Zero is a new multi-million pound dispense system which serves draught Coors Fine Light at -2.5ºC.
The pint is poured on a special revolving font and the beer is reduced to below freezing temperatures by an ultrasonic pulse which releases thousands of carbon dioxide molecules. These eventually form frozen lager crystals in the pint which, according to the brand owners, ensures the lager stays cool over a longer period of time.
Having seen the system in action for myself, it would not be amiss to describe it as pretty darn sexy.
However, my ire was raised by the article in the Daily Telegraph, which reported the views of the Campaign For Real Ale (CAMRA) on Sub Zero. CAMRA spokesman Iain Loe was quoted as saying: "If you serve any yellow liquid at that temperature you could probably drink it. Cynics would say that it was just a way of concealing the fact there's no taste there. And if there are any off flavours, you are not going to notice."
It is totally understandable that CAMRA wishes to support the cause of ale - and long may the organisation do that. However, must it stick its oar into every issue surrounding lager - since when did it become the Campaign Against Lager?
It is an example of how splintered the beer industry appears to have become.
You rarely, if ever, get a wine consumer group publically castigating a wine-maker over the type of wine they produce. There are arguments over pricing and production, but is there an organisation called CAWDOR (Campaign for the World Domination of Riesling)? Or even PINQACD (Pinot Noir Quaffers Against Chablis Drinkers)? No.
The beer industry gets caught up in petty squabbles with consumer groups, be it over smoothflow, branded glassware or extra cold lager.
Look at the number of times a new beer brand is launched to a torrent of criticism. Caffreys is a perfect example. It was unveiled to sneers of derision from the industry and yet it became a massive success story.
The views of industry pressure groups are interesting to hear but make little difference. It is the public that decides whether something is a success or a failure. It would be far worse to be part of an industry that introduces no innovation.
The point that CAMRA appears to be missing with this innovation is that for its primary roll-out the Sub Zero system is going into bars that sell very little cask beer - so if it fails little will be lost to them. But if it succeeds it will encourage people into the pub, where they can experience the delights of cask ale for themselves.
Far better an innovation like this that encourages people out of their homes into the pub, than something like Guinness Surger, which does its best to replicate the unique pub serve of Guinness in the home. Let's not forget you can only get consumers to drink cask beer if they are in the pub .
Drinkers and licensees want on-bar theatre in pubs and with Sub Zero Coors has brought the circus to town.
