The port pundit

How do port producers go about changing the drink's old-fashioned image?

That image of port comes from it being poured in some of the best gentlemen's clubs in the world, so that is a positive point. But of course we don't want to stay in that position. We need to bring in new consumers - a younger generation. We want to keep some sense of sophistication but not exaggerate it.

Port can be drunk in different ways, such as a dry white port and tonic, which is a very refreshing long drink, or a chilled 10 or 20-year-old Tawny. A young vintage port is also excellent as a dessert wine, not just as a classic accompaniment to blue cheese.

The right way of getting that message across is not spending all our margins on price promotions and marketing. That money can be much better employed organising samplings and seminars.

Is there scope in pubs for port and food matching?​

Absolutely. Not only as a combination with desserts that involve chocolates or berries, but it can go well with starters, especially patés.

You have been with Cockburn's since 1978. How has the company changed in that time?​

Traditionally, the port houses bought grapes or wines from private small growers or co-operatives. Cockburn's changed that by deciding to become an important viticulturalist and landowner. That was a direct consequence of the success of Cockburn's Special Reserve. It grew beyond our expectations, and it then became necessary for the company to produce its own grapes.

Now, all the main port houses are involved with grape production.

You are the president of the Association for the Development of Douro Viticulture (ADVID). What are the key objectives for this group? ​

ADVID was the result of the main port companies becoming involved in the Douro's production of grapes. There were so many things that needed to be investigated that it was considered reasonable to put together all the technical teams to work together on those answers, for example on the best root stock for the soil.

Right now, we are finalising the technical revision of the system that classifies all the vineyards in the region. Dating from 1947, it assesses the quality of the grapes. For the first time, a review will consider the up-dated technology that we have now.

What would you like to see pubs doing when it comes to port? Are licensees making the most of the opportunity?​

They should try more chilled Tawny. I'm also sure that fashions in the UK market will come from America, where young single Quinta vintages are very fashionable. It is a very good drink for the typical British weather, because it is warming. What I hope is that customers will stop feeling old-fashioned ordering a single Quinta or a chilled Tawny.

You were part of the team that won the Portuguese national rugby championship in 1973-74. Is there the same drinking culture around the sport in Portugal as there is in the UK?​

It's also very much with beer. At the end of the match - whether you are playing, or watching the game and suffering - you always feel a bit dehydrated. So beer is the first idea to come into your head. But why not a nice, long glass of dry white port and tonic with ice and lemon? It's a less heavy alternative.

It's my round. What are you having?​

Well, I've just had a big meal followed by enough ruby port, so a port tonic.

CV:

1976 ​- Established his own marketing and advertising company after studying agrarian science at university

1978​ - Joined Cockburn Smithes as production and viticulture manager

1979 ​- Secured new land for Cockburn's at Quinta do Atayde in Vilarica and began planting

1980 ​- Took an advanced postgraduate degree in Viticulture at Montpellier University, France

1995​ - Finished a two-year postgraduate degree in oenology at Charles Sturt University, New South Wales, Australia, with a distinction

1996 ​- Promoted to Cockburn's executive committee

1999​ - Appointed Cockburn Smithes' commercial and viticultural director

2002 ​- Elected president of the Association for the Development of Douro Viticulture (ADVID)