Cry God for England, football & St George

A seismic cultural shift in attitudes means Englishness is now back in fashion and, says Adam Edwards, what better day to celebrate than on the patron saint's day on 23 April.

Football, a game invented by the English, can be blamed for many of the country's ills, including hooliganism, Wags and the stadium "death burger". It is responsible for the public wearing of

nylon soccer shirts and the fashioning of some appalling lagers. And - let's face it - it has created a score of haircuts from hell.

On the other hand, it has given us back something that is much more important than the game itself - the English flag.

It was the Euro '96 competition held in England when English football fans to a man decided to replace the Union Jack with the flag of St George, a flag that had, until then, been reduced to the status of fluttering above the occasional country church or advertising a fast-food van hidden in a lay-by. For unlike the Union Flag it didn't represent "swinging London" or "cool Britannia". Furthermore, some Commonwealth countries complained that the duster, a red cross on a white background, was war-like, while left-wing councils thought that flying it was politically incorrect.

And then our national game reclaimed it. White van men followed, as did the pubs, the producers of English comestibles, advertisers and the media. Within a decade our Chancellor of the Exchequer, the fervent Scot Gordon Brown - a life-long supporter of Fife's Raith Rovers - was forced into saying that he would be supporting England rather than Scotland in the 2006 World Cup.

English patriotism is back in vogue. And now that the flag is in circulation, it's time to celebrate St George's Day and all that is English.

It was Richard the Lion Heart who officially claimed St George as England's patron saint in the 12th century (during the Crusades an apparition of St George reportedly appeared on the walls of Jerusalem waving his sword and encouraging the English on to a victorious assault on the Holy City.)

A hundred years later, the creation of the Noble Order of St George and the Standard of St George, which was always carried into battle, gave rise to the rallying cry of the English army "God for England, Harry and St George".

After victory at Agincourt, St George's Day was, according to author HP Maskell in his book The Taverns of Old England, "made a double feast and ordered to be observed with the same dignity as Christmas Day".

Boar's head with Yorkshire pud

In those days a "double feast" would include "boar's head, with Yorkshire pudding and gravy, with swan as a side dish", says Dorothy Hartley in her book Food In England. Also available would be cygnets, heron (the neck always worried cooks), peacocks, cranes, roast venison and a vinegar sauce to serve with the rich brawn. Drink was wine, mead or cider.

However, in the following centuries, after conquering half the known world, the English suddenly became reluctant to make a fuss about their patron saint - it is, after all, very un-English to show off - and so it is hundreds of years since anyone had a double St George's Day feast.

In fact, the situation had got so bad that two years ago, for example, a magistrate refused to extend a host's licence on 23 April because he said that, in the eyes of the law, "St George's Day is not a special day".

Recent events have forced a change of heart among the stout-hearted people who claim citizenship of the glorious Albion.

Its neighbouring chums, in particular the Scots and the Welsh, have now got the devolution they so dearly wished for and yet, to the fury of many Englishmen, they still want to vote on English matters in the House of

Commons.

Furthermore, while the Celts flaunt their independence, they take to the English courts of Justice at the first whiff of prejudice.

It is no surprise, therefore, that the recent British Social Attitudes survey, which tracks public attitudes on key issues, found that the proportion of the English who describe themselves as British has declined from 52% to 44% in the 10 years since 1996.

Up the Albion

And what is it that over half of England wishes to claim as its own? According to the late author George Orwell, "Englishness stretches into the future and the past, there is something in it that persists as in a living creature."

A rough list personifying Englishness would include Shakespeare (who was born on 23 April) King Arthur, Robin Hood, Jane Austen, Rudyard Kipling and Empire.

Eric Clapton, Pete Doherty, Liz Hurley and Kate Moss would make the list. So would a Test match at Lords, the last night of the Proms, punk and the Notting Hill Carnival.

A love of real ale would be mentioned (poet laureate Alfred, Lord Tennyson, after his visit to the International Exhibition of 1862

to hear an ode he wrote sung by a choir of

four thousand enquired: "Is there anywhere

in this damned place where we can get a decent bottle of Bass?").

The Bank of England, Twickenham, the BBC, Coronation Street, a gin and tonic and, of course, the football would all be there.

And so would understated manners, irony and in particular, an even temper.

It takes time to make an Englishman cross, said the late Beatle John Lennon. "You can hit an Englishman once and he'll smile," he said. "You can hit him a second time and he'll smile. But hit him a third time and he'll kill you."

And that is the way the English now feel towards their immediate cousins who so busily show off on St Patrick's, St Andrew's and St David's Days. It is time to kill off the opposition by a glorious celebration of St George's Day that will eclipse any Celtic endeavours.

l Firing the imagination - Food, p47

Reader COMPETITIONS to help you make the most of St George's Day

Dress your pub to the nines - and win £1,000

As well as celebrating everything English and putting on a special event, the MA has teamed up with Gaffney Party Products to reward the licensee who puts the most effort into decorating their pub for the occasion.

To be in with a chance of winning the Best Dressed Pub competition, with a first prize of £1,000 and special plaque, you need to send us some pictures of your outlet dressed up to the nines for the event.

Pubs can enter by logging onto

www.celebratestgeorgesday.com.

The closing date for the competition is 28 April. It will be judged at county level, with one overall national winner.

Toast England and St George and scoop £1,000

Wells & Young's is offering a £1,000 prize to the drinker who toasts St George in the most unusual place in the country.

As well as the cash prize, the winner will receive a uniquely-crafted, three-inch diameter silver medal and a certificate for choosing the most imaginative location to toast the saint at 10.45pm on his special

day.

To enter, send a photograph of you performing your toast with Wells Bombardier, plus a written description (no longer than 50 words) of what you did, and where you did it, to: Wells Bombardier Toast Competition, St George's Day 2007, The Office, 21 Coverdale, Carlton Colville, Lowestoft, Suffolk, NR33 8TD. Closing date is 28 April.

See www.celebratestgeorgesday.com​ for terms and conditions.

Get the Bombardier Bus to call

Wells Bombardier is giving readers of the Morning Advertiser the chance to get the Bombardier Bus at their pub on Saturday 21 April.

As St George's Day falls on a Monday this year, it is an excellent excuse to celebrate England over the whole weekend.

If you think that you should have the bus at your pub, tell us, in no more than 25 words, how you are planning to celebrate St George's Day.

Send your entries, along with your

name, address and contact details to bombardier@wel​