Carvery comeback

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The carvery is making a strong return, attracting a new generation of customers. Jo Bruce reports The carvery is shaking off its image problem of...

The carvery is making a strong return, attracting a new

generation of customers. Jo Bruce reports

The carvery is shaking off its image problem of dried-out food and canteen-style dining and is returning in a

cooler, fresher and far more appealing

contemporary format.

In our time-poor, cash-rich society the growing appeal of the concept is that it is often quicker, easier and cheaper to enjoy a carvery meal than cook a roast at home.

With this in mind, Mitchells & Butlers Toby Carvery promotes itself by saying: "Bring some balance to your busy life. Relax and let us make the effort for you."

There is also a growing demand for concepts that allow customisation or self assembly of meals, such as buffet-style dining, which has proved big business for Chinese restaurants.

As Alex Demetriou, manager of 350-cover restaurant and bar the Carvery Company in Cribbs Causeway, Bristol, which serves an average 3,000 covers a week, says: "Carvery dining is definitely enjoying a revival because people want to eat simple, well-prepared and well-cooked food in pleasant, relaxing surroundings. It is a bit like a home from home here, with comfortable seating and a great ambience that suits the whole family."

An increasing number of pub companies

are embracing the carvery concept and the

convenient, multi-cover, low-staffing opportunity it offers. As Steve Oliver, strategic development general manager of Marston's Inns & Taverns, which runs Taverners' Carvery, says: "Operationally, the format relies on high volume low margin, and depends heavily on excellent capacity management and stock control. When it's carried out properly you can see incredible returns, particularly in terms of volume versus wage costs."

Orchid Pub Company last year launched a contemporary carvery and plans to open another 10 by the end of the summer, plus, eventually, another 30.

Marston's Inns & Taverns has 13 Taverners' Carvery sites, which launched last year. The company plans to expand to 30 by the end of next year.

The pub carvery king is of course Mitchells & Butlers (M&B) with its Pub & Carvery and Toby Carvery brands. The restaurants serve an average 2,400 covers a week; it's a growth concept for the company, with Pub & Carvery seeing a 14% increase in covers last year.

Tony Hughes, managing director of Mitchells & Butlers pub restaurants says that for them the carvery concept has never really gone away.

But for all its advantages the carvery does have its operational challenges.

For food-safety reasons all food on the carvery must be kept above 63°C, otherwise any unsold food has to be disposed of, so wastage can be a problem. In quieter periods it is also difficult to stop meat from drying out or overcooking whilst on the carvery. Training is also important to ensure portion sizes are consistent. Avoiding big queues at the carvery is another problem operators have to overcome.

Despite the challenges, however, the carvery is certainly proving a winning formula for operators, with Taverners' Carvery doubling food takings at its new carvery pubs in a week. And for many operators the vision for pub carveries is of a modern not retro offer. Jerry Robinson, operations director at the Orchid Group, says: "We want to revolutionise the carvery sector, injecting passion, love and innovation, making our version of the carvery something very different from the industry norm."

Contemporary edge

The increasing focus of carvery operators

is on ingredients that are fresh and organic,

with an increasing emphasis on explaining provenance.

Fresh vegetables are now the norm rather than the exception too. Marston's Steve Oliver says: "It is important that all our vegetables are fresh, not frozen, and prepared on site."

At Toby Carvery the eight vegetables on offer are selected so they can be freshly steamed or roasted in seconds and the choice is changed seasonally. A vegetable of the week is also highlighted to customers.

The Williams Arms in Braunton, Devon, offers a carvery all week and serves on average 900 carvery covers. At lunchtimes, Monday to Saturday, there are 12 different vegetables on offer, rising to 18 on Sundays. Head chef Anthony Williams recommends sending vegetables out to the restaurant on a little-and-often basis.

All meats served at Orchid's carveries are now British or English, and ingredients are locally sourced where possible,

The company uses only free-range eggs in its home-made Yorkshire puddings, makes fresh stuffing daily and offers Fairtrade coffee. All staff are barista trained.

Explaining provenance is also an increasing focus at Toby Carvery sites, with their vegetables including crispy roast Estima potatoes, Yorkshire-grown carrots and swede from the Scottish borders among the variety on offer.

Broad customer appeal

One of the key strengths of the carvery concept is its appeal across social groups.

Alex, of the Carvery Company, says: "We are seeing an increase in the number of people eating out as complete families, with three or four generations of one family dining together in the evenings or at weekend lunchtimes. A roast is a sociable meal, one that people definitely enjoy sharing with friends, family and work colleagues. We have even seen some large groups of staff from various companies nearby coming in after work for a carvery."

Pub companies are also working hard to attract a new customer base to the carvery beyond its core of family and grey-market diners, aiming to tempt younger and single customers. Orchid's new carveries aim to be single-customer friendly by offering power points and wi-fi availability for internet access.

The mid-market is also a target audience, with operators such as the Carvery Company and Orchid offering their roasts above £7.

Orchid - which serves an average 600 Sun-day covers at its new carveries - has also improved its wine offer by working with Bibendum to give wine a more prominent presence and to stretch the price point, offering something for everyone.

Wines now range from £9 to £20, offering higher-end choices to accommodate more discerning customers.

Design and layout

Pub companies are also giving carveries a more contemporary design ambience to help appeal to a wider audience.

At Orchid design features include up-lit

wine displays, freshly-baked bread on display, a

variety of seating and luxurious planting.

The carvery layout has also been improved with vegetables in a separate station away from the carvery to help customer flow and reduce queues. Carvery meats are also presented on rustic, butcher's block-style pods.

Orchid's Jerry Robinson says: "We have been careful to keep an element of tradition to ensure we don't alienate our valued older customers, but you'll find a much lighter, brighter environment."

The Carvery Company in Bristol also has

a more contemporary look. The company

says it is modern compared to traditional carveries with natural wood a feature, but without moving too far away from the usual traditional carvery feel.

Pricing structure

One of the main appeals of the carvery is the value for money the format offers. With time a scarce commodity, it allows operators to charge a premium, especially on Sundays.

At the value end of the market is M&B's Pub & Carvery and Marston's Taverners' Carvery, with prices £3.99 Monday to Saturday, and £5.99 on Sundays.

M&B's Toby Carvery operates from £5.25 Monday to Saturday before 6pm and £7 afterwards, and £8 on Sundays.

Orchid's contemporary carvery is offered at £7.25 and the Carvery Company's is at £7.95.

In independents, too, a premium can be charged at weekends. At the Williams Arms in Braunton, Devon, the carvery is offered at £6.75 Monday to Saturday lunchtimes, and £8.75 in the evenings and Sunday lunchtimes.

Case study

Jackie Bis

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