Careers: Secret is in the sauce

FOR MARK Blanchford, there's one word that sums it all up - piccalilli.

For the uninitiated, that may need a little more explanation. Mark, the executive/development chef for expanding pub group Geronimo Inns, explains: "It's something you can buy in, but with a little skill and patience it's better if you make it yourself."

Enuring that all Geronimo's pubs pass the piccalilli test is one of the reasons - if not quite phrased in exactly those terms at his '06 interview - that the company recruited Mark a year ago.

Developing the skills in its chefs to confidently produce home-made sauces and condiments is just the kind of touch that helps to keep Geronimo standing out from the crowd.

Having opened its first pub in 1995, the company now operates 17 pubs in London, extending out into the Home Counties. These include two outlets at Heathrow Airport, with another confirmed for the Terminal Five development.

Home from home atmosphere​

The Geronimo mission statement sets out its stall: "We endeavour to create a warm home from home atmosphere, where real food at affordable prices is available seven days a week", it states.

The reality - especially in the prosperous South East where the company trades - is that over the decade that Geronimo has been in business, offering good-quality, fresh food at a reasonable price has moved from being a point of difference to the price of entry.

"There's no doubt the market has become a lot more competitive," says operations director Ed Turner. Customers have a wide choice, from genuine gastropubs - a definition Geronimo itself resists - to a wide range of hostelries offering interesting food and a warm welcome.

"The quality and range of pub food has never been better," says Ed. "From managed chains such as JD Wetherspoon - which also trades at Heathrow and is very good at what it does - to independents, there's good work going on across the trade."

Recognising that recruiting and retaining good kitchen staff was key to staying ahead of the pack, Geronimo brought Mark on board in April 2006. Despite an impressive CV which includes stints at Claridges and Mezzo in London, as well as running the kitchen at both the Gore Hotel in London and Soho House in New York, Mark rejects any suggestion that his fellow chefs might raise an eyebrow at his move into the pub sector - in fact, he suspects they might be a little jealous.

"I knew what the team at Geronimo was doing and thought its approach to food was really interesting," he says. "When we met up, it was clear we thought the same way."

Initially working as a consultant on the opening of the Phoenix, Victoria, and the Black Swan, Ockham, Mark then signed up to help with food development, including finding better suppliers and creating a core menu for the 17 pubs, as well as revamping and updating the food offer overall.

There is plenty of emphasis on theatre and presentation of food in the pubs, as well as competitive specialties such as a two or three-course lunch which guarantees to get customers back to their desk within an hour. In addition, chefs are encouraged to develop their own dishes and offer specials - all under Mark's watchful eye.

"I'm impressed with the enthusiasm and skills in our kitchens," he says. "Often it's just a question of giving them the confidence they need to add the extra touch" - the piccalilli factor in action.

Comprehensive training programme​

Mark works closely with Peter Wright, Geronimo's training and development chef, to deliver a comprehensive training programme which not only develops kitchen skills within existing pubs, but also allows the company to 'grow its own' chefs

to match its ongoing pub opening and expansion programme.

From basic food safety and hygiene through to tailored kitchen skills for specific pubs, training includes industry qualifications as well as company-specific courses. "We work with the individual to agree and assess their needs, and put in place a clear timetable so we know what the objective is," says Peter.

This can range from one-off modules to comprehensive skills development that may take eight months to a year to complete. "We're equipping them with skills they can take out into the industry," says Peter.

"But in some cases, those who have left have come back to us to run their own pubs. Everyone benefits."