Beneath the froth
The hot drinks market is growing and customers expect more for their cash - but is the trade taking advantage of the opportunities? Kelly Smith takes the temperature of three Warwickshire pubs
The perfect cuppa
The suppliers' guide to making some of the nation's favourite hot drinks from First Choice Coffee and Twinings
Cappuccino is one third espresso and one third hot milk, topped with one third densely foamed milk, which should ideally form a gentle dome on top of the coffee. To finish, sprinkle with cocoa or cinnamon
Latte should be a long milky drink with plenty of coffee flavour. It's made with one small cup of freshly-brewed espresso plus hot milk, topped with a splash of foam. For a tasty twist, add a shot of flavoured syrup, such as vanilla, to the espresso base
Espresso is the classic base for all speciality coffee drinks. It should be short, sweet and intense with a dense caramel-coloured "crema". For a single espresso use 7-9g coffee, 30ml water and an extraction time of 10-12 seconds for an automatic espresso machine (extend to 20-25 seconds for traditional machines)
Tea
Use only freshly-drawn cold water
Ensure kettles or water boilers are de-scaled regularly and that the teapots/mugs are spotlessly clean
l Water should have just boiled when it is poured into the pot
l Leave to brew for three to five minutes and stir before serving
l Pour tea into cup, add milk, and then sweeten as required
Venue one - tenanted
What we ordered:
A cappuccino and a hot chocolate
Cost: £4
An Illy coffee plaque in the doorway of this wet-led pub is a sign that it takes its offering seriously. The advert wasn't an empty one: both drinks, which were brought to our table, were well made and finely presented in branded cups - no lipstick marks here.
The cappuccino had the right balance of espresso to milk and foam and was more satisfying, albeit a little more expensive, than the oversized and over-milky coffees served in some well-known chains. Although it could have been hotter, the chocolate
was how it should be: rich and indulgent. It turned out to be Green & Black's, but unless customers ask, they won't necessarily know it is organic.
The barman clearly knew what he was doing with the espresso machine - but he couldn't list all of the hot drinks when quizzed.
Overall verdict: The £4 price tag, which was roughly in line with local coffee houses, was justified by the quality. This calibre of offer is crying out for a basic hot drinks menu or at least a chalkboard, which would help maximise sales and exploit the premium brands used. The pub is savvy in other ways, though; it offers free wireless internet access to customers who bring in their laptops.
Venue two - managed
What we ordered:
A black coffee and a tea
Cost: £1.98
It seemed unusual for a branded pub of this type to be quiet at 1pm. The smoking ban may be a factor but it's more likely that a below-par offering was to blame - as the pub opposite, a similar venue, was much busier.
Friendly service was encouraging but the coffee - instant in this case - disappointing. The tea was worse: the bag floated at the top, leaving a scum mark inside the mug, which was branded with the name of a car-hire firm. It tasted bland even though it had clearly stewed while sitting on the bar for too long. Swapping the UHT with fresh milk and upgrading the coffee and tea would be a start.
Overall verdict: Although the value wasn't too bad considering the service, we could have done a better job at home with some decent instant coffee - for a fraction of the price. This prominently positioned, seemingly food-led venue is missing out. It could be
offering speciality coffees from 10am, targeting the school-run mums, right through to late at night when lorry drivers delivering to the nearby industrial and retail park may be looking for refreshment.
Venue three - freehouse
What we ordered: Two cappuccinos
Cost: £5
Quality beer is the staple of this waterside venue. It is well known for serving locally-brewed cask ale, and premium bottled brands line its fridges. So the cappuccinos on the dessert menu hold plenty of promise.
For £2.50 a pop you really are expecting something special, even more so when the drinks are served rather grandly in Irish coffee-style glasses. Unfortunately they were a bland concoction of what seemed like powdered milk, coffee flavouring and hot water.
Overall verdict: It's obvious that coffee is not top priority for this traditional local. But, if it's on the menu, and at that price, you would expect it to be in line with the rest of the pub's offering, especially if it's more expensive than a pint yet costs much less to make.
The MA's conclusion
Quality is the key factor separating the offer in these venues. The freehouse's extortionately priced and inaccurately named cappuccinos will no doubt be a huge letdown for customers - if they actually sell any. Standards should have been better at the managed outlet, where both offering and staff training are centralised.
The forward-thinking leasehold was the only pub that got it right, offering authentic drinks and good value. Its investment in quality products and training has clearly paid off.
The bottom line is that Britain's brand-centric customers will pay for premium products and there will be a queue of coffee houses willing to accommodate them if their local pub can't.
