Chris Maclean: The sacrifices we make

Yesterday afternoon we had lunch in the local catering college restaurant. I trained there myself, many years ago, and it has hardly changed. Uncertain waiters and waitresses shake nervously as they try to manoeuvre awkward shapes of food onto our plates using only a spoon and fork. Service is slow, awkward and embarrassed. I could pick holes in a dozen things. But there would be no point. These young people are the future of our industry in one shape or another, and they need the opportunity to learn their craft.

I remember being in that same position as a student, working five days a week Monday to Friday between nine and five and with 20 weeks holiday. When I finally got my first job I recall vividly the sheer horror when it dawned on me that we would have to work long hours and awkward shifts in anti-social patterns, and would be treated largely like dirt.

These dewy-eyed students were embarking on their chosen vocation with scarcely an idea of what it entails. It will come to them very harshly.

There are some in our industry who work sensible hours. Some who live some semblance of normality. I know of many London pubs which close at weekends and I envy their opportunity to do so.

But for every licensee who lives such a life I guess there are many who work in hours and conditions which, if they were in the public knowledge, would be viewed in the same way as slavery.

A friend runs a small historic little town pub which trades quietly. She cleans the pub in the morning, works throughout the lunchtime, has her tea and a shower in the afternoon, then trades through the evening. Every day, seven days a week. She earns very little. If she were an employee it would be a national scandal. But she isn't, it isn't and she loves it. Her dedication to her business and the institution that it is compels her to act so selflessly. Her actions are repeated throughout the country. Many pubs that are now could not exist were the licensees not to sacrifice so much to sustain them. There are many licensees whose businesses are totally unviable and yet remain open by their selfless efforts. I salute them.

But what about those students preparing themselves for their entry into our industry? Will they make such sacrifices to the good of their communities? It seems increasingly unlikely. I think they have yet to have their rude awakening.