Worth more than a Sideways glance

Californian wine is starting to make a

real impact as more mid-market styles make their way

across the Atlantic. Fiona Sims tells all

Can you buy decent Californian wines that represent good value?

Well, it's happening folks. Consumers and buyers are finally getting over the perception that California offers premium wines at the top end of the scale and bargain basement wines on the other, with nothing in between. US supermarket shelves are groaning with Californian wines in the £5 to £10 price bracket and they are finding their way over here.

Is California on a roll?

Ten years ago it had only 2% market share in the UK, now it has 16%. The latest figures show growth of 6% in value and 7% volume (MAT to 1 December 2007), and the average price per bottle has gone over the £4 mark.

Thanks must go, in part, to the weak dollar, but the folks at the California Wine Institute have been working hard to raise the region's profile over here as well. And we can't forget certain brands, of course (Gallo, Blossom Hill), which put California on the map for many UK consumers.

So what's hot on the grape front?

Cabernet Sauvignon still rules, but thanks to the Sideways effect Pinot Noir has picked up nicely, sometimes even outselling Chardonnay, although it was already doing quite well anyway. The darling of critics, sommeliers, fine wine retailers and fat-walleted consumers, who are more than willing to shell out for it, there's not much good quality Californian Pinot Noir around at under $20.

Other pundits reckon premium Merlot will bounce back, while Syrah still represents a tremendous opportunity as the region already grows some of the world's best.

Ah, Syrah - the Rhône Rangers, as the small band of maverick producers were called.

Two decades ago only a handful of producers made Syrah in California, now there are over 400 wineries producing it, with all the big boys cranking up production of this Rhône Valley original. There are styles galore to be had these days, from those made in cool Carneros, via Syrah grown in the high altitudes of Lake County, to warm Paso Robles, where ultra-ripe styles are made.

Californian Albariño, anyone?

Believe it. Not content with growing the classic varieties, the Californians are also having a go at some of Europe's more obscure grapes.

Yup, there are plantings of Austria's Grüner Veltliner, France's Gros Manseng and even Portugal's Touriga Nacional. And why not? California's warm, dry climate during the growing season makes viticulture a breeze, and with its diversity of soils and climates, and zero regulations on which grapes can be grown and what wines can be made, anything goes pretty much.

It's still relatively young wine-making country, with the newer areas in their infancy.

Is Napa really the jewel in California's wine-making crown?

It even has protected-name status in the EU now - the first such recognition of an American wine place name, joining Champagne, Jerez, Chianti Classico et al.

It's a labelling thing - wine from Napa should come from the Napa Valley. It's the most recognised wine region in America, yet it only accounts for 4% of California's wine production.

Its blockbuster Cabernet Sauvignons hog the limelight on top US restaurant wine lists. Not that we see much of Napa's wines over here - they're hard to get hold off and the top stuff is eye-wateringly expensive. Even though California has reached third place in volume sales to the UK, the vast majority of these are made up of brands.