Country pub for the new era

"The Cowdray?" says the taxi driver, perking up. "I hear it's had a lick of paint."

That's true, in a sense. Given that a major capital scheme has just seen an investment of around £300,000 in the pub, located just outside Balcombe in Sussex, owner Greene King Pub Partners and new lessee County of Sussex Inns might be a little disappointed to see it relegated to the status of a minor DIY project.

On the other hand, since one of the key goals of the makeover has been to preserve the character of the pub and restore its standing as a thriving community local - while significantly raising its game on the food side - the fact locals haven't noticed too much of a change might be just what was intended.

With the Cowdray sitting on the edge of the High Weald, designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, it's a safe bet the local planners would also have taken an interest had the pub's character changed.

Around 90 per cent of the food and drink sold at the Cowdray is sourced in Sussex, ranging from honey and mead made at nearby Worth Abbey, wine from eight Sussex vineyards, and Sussex beer and cider, to meat sourced from a number of local farms through Handcross Village Butchers, local cheese and fresh produce.

The percentage of product sourced locally has grown steadily since the pub re-opened in February, as licensees Alex and Andy Owen unearth more local suppliers.

"Word of mouth is a big factor," says Andy, a trained chef who runs the pub's kitchen. "Suppliers talk to each other, and once they realise they can get a good price for high-quality produce, they'll come and find us."

Using local suppliers is a course an increasing number of pubs are steering. What makes the Cowdray particularly interesting is that it brings together some of the trade's heavy-hitters in a new type of venture, reflecting changing times for both established operators and entrepreneurs.

As the owner of the freehold, Greene King Pub Partners is clearly in the business of putting successful lessees into its properties, tackling the same challenge that all pubcos face as the cracks in the traditional 'pay-rent, buy-beer' business model widen in the post-smoking ban reality.

On the lessee side, you have County of Sussex Inns - a new venture in which Alex and Andy have a 30 per cent stake. Backing them in the business is the team behind entrepreneurial operator 333, which runs a range of food businesses in London, including award-winning Fulham food pub the Admiral Codrington.

Langy is a director of 333 and one of the driving forces behind the deal to lease the Cowdray. "I grew up in Sussex, not that far from the Cowdray, and Sussex people are fiercely proud of their local produce," he says. "I've thought about country pub ventures several times, but our London ventures keep me fully occupied."

"Equally, the London market is getting very crowded, and there are some great young operators out there looking for opportunities."

Having worked for both Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay (front of house and in the kitchen respectively), Alex and Andy fitted the profile Langy was looking for - passionate, enthusiastic, but in need of some help to come up with the financial wherewithal to move to their own pub.

"This is their business," says Langy. "And they have the responsibility for making it succeed. I'm here with the other shareholders to offer support and advice." From conversations with customers, Alex has established that the Cowdray has substantial goodwill in the area. "The majority of customers say they've been here before, but not for a while. We're seeing a good mix of locals and business trade right through the week.

"Last night we had a woman who came in for a glass of wine and a Caesar salad on her own - she'd just moved into the area and doesn't know anyone yet. That shows me we've got the offer more or less right."

Feedback cards completed by customers confirm the story, with many saying how pleased they are to see the pub trading successfully again, as well as praising the quality of the food. That has not been achieved without a few teething troubles, admits Andy. "If something's not up to scratch we send it back - which is how we'd do it at Marco or Gordon's restaurants," he says. "As soon as suppliers know we're serious, they won't muck us about, they don't want the cost of having to come out twice."

However, the focus on food quality is balanced with a determination to keep the Cowdray firmly on the pub side of the great 'pub or restaurant' debate, with a dartboard, good cask beer range, and locals encouraged to pop in for a pint.

Langy believes the business model has 'legs'. "Greene King is one of the more forward-thinking operators in the market, willing to consider different ideas," he says. "I wanted to start in Sussex because I knew the county, and there may be other opportunities for Alex and Andy in the area.

"Equally, we can take the model to other part of the country, such as Kent, or Yorkshire. It needs what I call 10-session pubs, those that can be busy right through the week. There are others like the Cowdray out there, it's just a mater of finding them."