Bravissimo!

THE FIRST thing that anyone who pops into a bar in Italy for a beer gets, perhaps a little surprisingly, is something to eat. It's a tradition that chef Giorgio Locatelli would like to see in the UK.Locatelli believes that his adopted homeland's pubs and bars urgently need to take a leaf - suitably drizzled with olive oil - from the books of their Italian counterparts and raise their game in snack terms.

"There are only so many crisps and nuts you can eat," he says.

Which is why Locatelli is taking time out from his London restaurant to demonstrate the art of aperitivo to a number of leading pub groups, working in partnership with iconic Italian beer Peroni. Aperitivo is an Italian tradition dating back to the 1700s. It combines a small plate of food with a beer or other drink, such as a vermouth, in the early evening.

While Milan is said to be the home of aperitivo, each region has introduced its own variation.

"It's all about using local specialities," says Locatelli. "Every region has produce which can be used to create a simple, fresh dish. The barman will put a plate in front of the customer almost as soon as they sit down."

Italians typically eat later in the evening, so the aperitivo is a civilised way of taking on board a little something to line the stomach. "It's definitely something we should do more of over here," he believes.

The Michelin-starred chef has devised 10 aperitivo recipes which reflect a range of Italian regional specialities, using products such as sardines, anchovies, salami, artichokes, tomato sauce and foccacia bread.

The aim has been to create authentic dishes which complement the taste of Peroni Nastro Azzurro. "Peroni has a very distinctive flavour with a lemony finish, and is especially good matched with salty dishes," says Locatelli.

Dishes developed for the UK are being branded as L'Aperitivo di Peroni. In a promotion being run at some managed pubs, when a customer orders a bottle of Peroni during aperitivo time they will be presented with a complimentary aperitivo dish alongside the beer.

Having better access than most to authentic Italian ingredients clearly gives Locatelli an advantage over most pubs, but he believes his ideas will be a reference point for operators to come up with their own versions.

The most important thing, he believes, is that barstaff should buy into the idea. "Staff should be fed with what's on the menu so they know the food inside out," he advises.