Fresh & Frozen focus: What's in a name?

Sometimes a name change is for the best. John Wayne would clearly not have put the wind up the Apache nation to quite the same degree if he'd stuck with his given name, Marion Morrison. Equally, Big Daddy might not have cut such an imposing figure if he'd been billed in the wrestling ring as Shirley Crabtree.

So when the pub formerly known as the Dorchester Arms ­ something of a landmark for anyone who has ever driven on the A30 or A287 through Hook, Hampshire ­ was refurbished and rebranded as the Hogget Bar & Kitchen back in April, there had to be a good reason.

For licensees Tom and Vicki Faulkner, the name change was an essential part of positioning the new business. Having both lived in the area previously, they were only too familiar with the Devonshire. "It had a bad reputation," says Tom.

"If we could have seen any value in keeping the name, we would have." Vicki adds: "Several customers have told us that if we hadn¹t changed the name, they wouldn't even have tried us out." One local military gentleman phoned to berate Vicki for disrespecting the Duke of Devonshire, but went away reassured that the pub's history is being respected, even as its next chapter is being written.

For Tom and Vicki, as well as head chef Simon Brooks, the Hogget represents an opportunity to build on the success of their previous venture in the county, the Vine in Hambledon.

That pub was given the Best Pub Food Award title at last year's Marston¹s Pub Company Awards, while Simon was runner-up in the Chef of the Year category.

"We were looking for something bigger," says Vicki, "and also wanted to take on a lease to give us an opportunity to develop a business in the long term." In conjunction with Marston's, the roadside inn has been given a £300,000 facelift, which includes a new outdoor seating area, expanded bar and revamped restaurant area.

Simon has developed a menu around local specialities and home-made food. The aim is to offer traditional pub food while adding quality and value to attract the area's reasonably affluent population.

The name alludes to the Hampshire hog, a symbol of the county, and is an old country word for a young pig. The menu will change monthly and vary according to seasonality and availability (see box). The pub itself was part of the Eldridge Pope estate, acquired by Marston's at the start of 2007, and had seen off a number of tenants over recent years.

Identifying suitable local suppliers proved to be a reasonably straightforward process. "Some of them I¹ve known for many years," says Tom, "others we found by asking around.

"But they¹re all happy to work with us, and the great thing about local suppliers is they can be flexible about delivering." So far customers have been the expected mix of couples, families, 'ladies who lunch' and business customers, combined with a healthy drinks trade.

"Our response to those who say we¹ve turned into a restaurant is that we¹ve actually increased the bar area," says Tom. "I'd say the trade has been reasonably local so far." Vicki adds: "We knew people would give us a try, but I'm now starting to see my 'regulars' ­ people who are coming back for the second or third time."