Unsung Hero of the Year 2008: David Wallace, kitchen porter, the Inn @ West End, Surrey

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The title of kitchen porter (KP) does not do justice to the wide-ranging role that David Wallace plays at The Inn @ West End and he is therefore a...

The title of kitchen porter (KP) does not do justice to the wide-ranging role that David Wallace plays at The Inn @ West End and he is therefore a worthy winner of the Publican Food Awards & Drink Awards Unsung Hero award.

Since taking over the job of KP in 2000 he has developed the role from initially being centred on washing up to one that encompasses a much broader range of responsibilities.

This has made David an integral member of the team at The Inn @ West End, near Woking in Surrey, as it has gradually converted from a wet-led outlet to a destination food-focused pub that regularly delivers 500 covers per week.

"I was employed as a KP but it has evolved as I've anticipated the needs of the chef where necessary before they know it," he says.

This has led to him taking full responsibility for preparing mashed and dauphinoise potatoes, which has involved him developing some innovations in the method of preparation that have enhanced the quality of the dishes.

His success with potatoes resulted in him preparing other vegetables, as well as handling a variety of other tasks around the pub such as looking after deliveries of raw materials and drinks from suppliers and dealing with general maintenance tasks when required.

A typical day for David is therefore pretty busy and varied. "I open up at 9am and get the ovens going, sort out the bones for the stock, clear up any mess from the previous night, put the deliveries away and then sort out the potatoes," he says. "From noon the washing up starts."

This has meant that his initial two days per week has extended into four days and he has become crucial to the smooth running of the pub. What also makes him an unsung hero behind the scenes at the pub is his record of training young people who join his team.

"When the younger ones come into the kitchen, they are my direct responsibility. A lot have a go at it [washing up] and I show them how to use the machine etcetera. I'll get them going on this and then get them to also do food preparation," he explains.

This introduction to food at the hard end of the business by David has "made a hard job slightly better" and has resulted in a number of recruits developing an interest in food and moving on to various roles within the industry.

Such has been the impact of David on the business that the pub's owner acknowledges that he would be very difficult to replace. He has effectively made his own job up over time and this has ultimately been beneficial both for David and the Inn @ West End because, although he is very much unseen, he has made a significant contribution to its success.

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