Profile: German jollity at the Bavarian Beerhouse
I'm not generally a fan of attempts to transplant drinking cultures between nations. Despite 30 years of legal drinking, I'm still a long way from exhausting the possibilities all London's authentically British pubs offer, so feel little need to visit any of the capital's Irish, Belgian or Australian-themed hostelries.
So, it was with a certain amount of trepidation that I accepted an invitation to check out the Bavarian Beerhouse on City Road in Islington. However, not only did I enjoy great beer and hearty pub food, but I can see the venue's owners' point that the format could offer a lifeline to town centre bars around the UK.
The Bavarians take the quality of their food and drink seriously - but the unashamed pleasure they take in enjoying a good night out is a lesson some parts of the UK pub sector could do with relearning.
The Beerhouse was opened in 2006 by husband-and-wife team René and Sabine von Reth, who took their inspiration from Munich's renowned Hofbräuhaus. The basement premises was formerly a wine bar, and the below-ground location provides a trading space many Central London venues would envy - including a beer-cellar style bar with long benches, a more upmarket dining room, and a function room decked out like a ski chalet.
The start of this year saw the Beerhouse appoint a new chef, Jörg Ebermann. Having trained at the Rothenburger Hof in Dresden, Ebermann worked as a chef de partie and head chef in Switzerland, New Zealand and Australia before taking on his current role.
Without re-inventing the already successful menu, Jörg has raised standards, importing more produce from Germany.
"It's an authentic Bavarian menu," he says, "prepared to the same standards as a German restaurant." The senior kitchen staff are German, as are the waitresses, dressed in Bavarian-style dirndls.
The menu includes schnitzel, Munich pork roast and a variety of sausages. A seasonal special this year will be white asparagus flown in and cooked to a German recipe.
Along with the meat and other key produce, the beers are imported from Germany and served in one-litre steins.
Jörg says: "After so many years abroad, the Bavarian Beerhouse feels like home away from home to me. It's great to see that the guests really enjoy the traditional German and Bavarian cuisine."
The concept has a clear appeal to larger groups, such as work parties and birthdays. Entertainment includes DJs and oompah bands, as well as a number of organised, good-natured drinking games. The founders believe that the concept is one that pubcos scratching their heads over what to do with large town-centre sites should look at.
Nikki Birches, franchise manager of Bavarian Beerhouse, says: "The current situation is perfect for entering the franchise business.
"Many pubs and restaurants are having a hard time. However, the Bavarian concept is doing extremely well in London."
