Profile: Game on at the Angel

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While the links between the pub trade and the shooting and fishing fraternity are well established, it tends to be pubs in rural communities where...

While the links between the pub trade and the shooting and fishing fraternity are well established, it tends to be pubs in rural communities where such relationships are strongest.

In some circumstances, the spectacle of regulars emerging from a Manchester pub armed with shotguns might give cause for concern. Not so at the Angel, where it just means another clay shooting expedition is off for a day out.

The pub had been closed for two years - and at one stage had even been scheduled for demolition - before Robert Owen Brown bought the freehold a year ago.

"It was known as a real ale pub before it closed, it didn't have any reputation for food," says Brown.

However, that has changed over the past year. As might be expected from a chef whose media credits include appearances on Kill it, Cook it, Eat it, food - and particularly game - are central to the Angel's offer.

The pub's location, away from Manchester's main bar and restaurant circuit around the Deansgate area, appealed to Brown, a local boy. "I opted for a pub in the city because that's where the majority of my customers are - country pubs are great but they are very difficult to staff and sustain financially."

He also suspects the distraction of game shooting would keep him away from kitchen duties if he worked in a country location. It was while working in hotels on the west coast of Scotland that Brown discovered the appeal of game stalking and shooting.

Even so, cooking remains his prime passion. The menu changes weekly and is built around traditional, seasonal British food - including game and fish. Local favourites such as faggots also feature.

"People are coming here for the food more and more," says Brown, "although it's still very much a local pub, and we stock real ales from local microbreweries.

"We produce some of the best game in the world in this country, and to me, that needs to be promoted. Since opening we have sold more game than anything else - I can sell more pigeons than steaks on any night."

As well as enjoying the food, the Angel's regulars have embraced Brown's related passions. Just about every weekend a shooting or sea-fishing party sets off. These supply fish and, in season, game for the pub's menu.

"We charter, on average, nine boats a month for sea fishing trips and, once the game season starts again, I could easily put a team of eight guns out every other day of the week. The next thing we are looking at is deer stalking and I have a couple of people who are really interested in ferreting rabbits."

Some might question the wisdom of so much activity going on away from the pub. However, Brown sees it as an essential part of the Angel's appeal, and really no different to an away fixture for a darts team.

"We're a community pub. We don't have a pool table or a dart board, so for our regulars the shooting and fishing parties are the pub activities they take part in."

  • This year's National Taste of Game Week, developed by the British Association for Shooting & Conservation (BASC), runs from November 14 to 21. For more details, visit Game's On ​ To feature your pub on the website, email gameson@basc.org.uk.Thanks to the BASC for pictures and information used in this article.

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