Menus traditional and modern

So, Fabio Capello likes shepherd's pie and has fallen in love with traditional British culture. If so, the England manager would enjoy a visit to the pub for a meal, as traditional fare is returning to the menu with gusto.

Our survey illustrates the increasing popularity of home-grown produce, with 85 per cent of pubs describing their offer as 'traditional British food'.

But food from abroad is also on the increase - dramatically so - and there have been significant increases in the number of pubs offering vegetarian or 'modern British' food.

The overall theme is one of increasing variety and quality as pubs step up to the plate to satisfy increasingly sophisticated consumer palates.

Evocative childhood memories of home cooking are the inspiration behind won the Publican's Food Pub Company of the Year, Whiting & Hammond, which has five pubs in Kent and Sussex.

Managing director Brian Whiting says: "We naturally yearn for the home-cooked food we had in our younger days. Food creates memories, but the supermarket ready meal has destroyed all that. We want the kind of thing granny used to make, and even school dinners.

"We try to keep our food simple. We offer dishes such as macaroni cheese and ham, egg & chips. It's traditional, British food, but perhaps a bit more traditional than most pubs because often it's the sort of dish you'd eat at home."

But behind the survey lies another important trend - the rise and rise of local food. Increasing numbers of pubs are relying on regional produce in order to create a wholesome and imaginative menu, while delivering value.

Paul Drye is executive chef at St Austell and the Publican's HQ Food Champion of the Year. He says: "I guess part of what won it for us is our commitment to sourcing ingredients from Devon and Cornwall, where almost all of our pubs are based."

The recession has played an important part in St Austell's 2009 food offer, with a lunch club deal whereby customers can eat good British grub for under £5. "People trust local food, whether the recession is on or not. People will still trust it after the recession is over, but the economy certainly influences how we market it," he adds.

Local food - how to farm success from your doorstep​

While the words 'traditional British' may conjure up images of fish & chips and bangers & mash, the reality is that pub chefs are finding innovative ways to enhance the appeal of local ingredients. Local provenance is a valuable marketing tool - as demonstrated by Ashley McCarthy of Ye Old Sun Inn.

Ashley, who owns the pub in Colton, North Yorkshire with his wife Kelly, picked up The Publican's Local Food Pub of the Year earlier this month, says: "It's obviously not just us. Everywhere you go now, it seems pubs are looking to promote the food from their local area. At the same time as it makes things more competitive, it gives everyone a competitive edge."

Ye Old Sun Inn even has its own deli shop, showcasing Yorkshire produce including preserves and pates. "There are all kinds of ways to promote local food - and because people trust in tradition, it's an easy thing to sell - so long as the food is cooked and served properly," adds Ashley.

Traditional food is presented in an imaginative manner. For example, a game terrine starter of rabbit, venison, pigeon and pheasant is served with juniper, herbs and a fruit chutney.

Menus change on a monthly basis but specials can change daily. This allows Ashley to take full advantage of seasonally-available ingredients. The pub uses only small producers and promotes them on its menus.

Examples include Grimsby haddock, battered to order; pigeon breast from the nearby Ledston Estate; Trio of Acaster strawberries, served in July and Colton village plum crumble in September.

Ethnic food - adding spice to the variety of pub life​

Our survey suggests a dramatic increase in the number of pubs offering ethnic food. Whether it be Indian, Chinese, Italian or Thai, the figures are soaring.

Mark Greig, managing director of property firm Paramount Investments, says: "We sell a lot of pubs which are converted to either Indian or Chinese restaurants, so it would not seem that demand for that type of food is on the way up."

Where pubs specialise in such themes, they continue to do well. The St James Tavern in Brighton has a menu entirely composed of Thai cuisine, cooked on site by Thai chefs. Sales are buoyant, according to pub manager John Young.

He says: "We are taking double on food compared to where we were two years ago. There has been no decline in sales.

"We have a Thai family which takes care of the kitchen and people like to see that because of the authenticity that it creates. They use fresh ingredients and we have a nicely printed menu with lots of variety on it. Dishes are priced simply and you get a full meal for £5.95."

This may be just the right time to set up a quality ethnic pub food offer, as consumer demand for cuisine from abroad continues to be very healthy.

Is the recession stifling innovation in pub food?​

YES​ - Mark Lyddy, foodservice controller, Tilda Foodservice​

"In some areas, yes. There are some pubs only concerned with driving down price and downgrading their menus, which in my opinion is a route to disaster."

NO​ - Sam Pedder, head of food, Admiral Taverns​

"The recession in some ways is offering us the opportunity to rediscover things that we were in danger of losing. We all need to be innovative thinkers, more now than ever, to ensure we are maximising every opportunity."

NO​ - James Armitage, marketing director, Brakes​

"On the contrary, I believe it is forcing pubs to be more creative as they have to ensure each dish on their menu is not only appetising but also commercially viable and earns its place on the menu."

NO - Tim Shearer, marketing manager, 3G Food Service ​

"No - good suppliers are always on the lookout for new and exciting. Having said that, any new products have to deliver in terms of taste, texture and price-point."