Pony & Trap: Gastro trap

One-time Gordon Ramsay College Scholar Josh Eggleton tells Sheila McWattie how he has realised his dream — and his future — at the Pony & Trap pub in a stunning Somerset location at Newton, Chew Magna, near Bristol.

How I got here​

My first job was in the local chippy, at the age of 15. Four years later I left the Chew Valley, having trained in the area, and became the Gordon Ramsay College Scholar in 2003.

I travelled and cooked under great chefs in Sicily, France and America, largely unpaid, but never unrewarded, and returned in 2006 looking for an opportunity. The leasehold Pony & Trap was up for sale, having hit a low point.

Nostalgia played a part in my decision — we came here when I was young. It was always busy and I remembered Dad advising me about the three most important business priorities: location, location, location.

I'm 26 now; the Pony & Trap is my dream and future — and this 200-year-old inn is a destination pub in every sense. Ten miles south of Bristol and north of Wells, and 12 miles west of Bath, in a stunning location with views extending for miles over uninterrupted countryside, it is the focal point of New Town, Chew Magna, which has fewer than 25 residents. Our task is to motivate customers to seek us out — and once they have, to give them every reason to return and recommend us to others.

How we achieved growth​

At first I was on an old InnSpired lease, leaving Punch Taverns responsible for the main structure, roof and drains. Night one saw four customers and less than £50 in the till. Over the next three months we redecorated, reorganised the kitchens and completely refurbished the restaurant with invaluable help from family and friends.

Many customers left without spending a penny when they discovered the change from pub grub to a more extensive choice of modern English with international influences, but we'd set our goals and had to go for them. Local articles and advertising created interest and we started building a strong reputation for quality food, locally sourced, at sensible prices.

Over the next 18 months or so, business increased five-fold. I negotiated hard at the rent review and kept the increase to a minimum, so the rent was probably below expectations, but you still need a strong business to gain support from shaky bankers.

In 2009 I was able to realise that support and buy the freehold from Punch Taverns at a knock-down price. The growth curve continues, taking turnover to £11k per week.

Business philosophy​

The harder you work, the luckier you become. I value our customers and hope they value us: we do everything we can to add to their experience.

I value my suppliers: like most good food establishments I want organic, but I especially want seasonal and local.

How we stand out from the competition​

Listing suppliers on the reverse of our menu gives a strong message: 90% of the offering has only travelled a few miles to make it to the plate. A separate mini-menu of coffees, teas and digestives is placed on tables following dessert.

Our dishes can be enjoyed in the restaurant overlooking what must be one of the most outstanding views for miles around, or in the bar while chatting to one of the local farmers, who probably reared the lamb our customers enjoy.

Children are welcome and love our common and rare-breed chickens and ducks in the gardens.

Recommended website​

We bought 60 restaurant chairs from eBay for £80 when we were starting out and really knew what skint meant.

Service secrets​

Folk like to pass on tips, so it's imperative people leave with a smile. All front-of-house staff wear black with aprons. We use white linen napkins to hold the plates; tables are laid with cutlery for three courses, wine and water glasses and named reservation cards and lit church-style candles.

Successful marketing & PR​

Running themed evenings about every three weeks is particularly useful in winter. Our house leaflet describes our pub and philosophy and we publicise at every opportunity, using ads, flyers and our menu.

Credit check​

I buy whole deer from a local marksman (with the necessary licences and permits) for £50 a carcass, and skin and butcher it myself. Nothing goes to waste: alongside fine venison dishes we offer burgers and tagine, and the liver is the best I've ever tasted. We also hand-make burgers with trimmings from the short loins of beef, from which we butcher our rib-eye steaks.

Staff motivation​

Great staff are hard to find. I employ people I like, who fit into the team, and work not only for reward, but thrive on recognition. We hold regular nights to relax, reflect, recharge and inspire each other.

Couldn't live without​

Local farmers, growers and shooters; my team of KPs and the potato rumbler I bought for £100 that saves a fortune and loads of time.

Bar talk​

As a food-led operation we sell lots of wine and gin & slim, but we don't have a strong beer trade. Our wine list is in branded covers, offering a wide selection of more than 30 labels from £11.50.

Pub facts​

Licensee: Josh Eggleton, head chef/proprietor

Tenure: Freehold

Tel number: 01275 332627

Website: www.theponyandtrap.co.uk​

Turnover: £11k p/wk

Wet:dry split: 30:70

Wages as percentage of turnover: 25%

Food/drink GP: 68%/60%

Total covers: 400/500

Five best ideas​

• Support a local brewer — ours is Butcombe Brewery. Stocking three products means free cellar services and valuable support when we do event catering elsewhere.

• Tasting menu — we offer a six-course tasting menu (£25 per head plus wine) every few weeks on a Thursday. Our local wine supplier from the Mendip Bottle serves and informs customers about wine choices.

• Traditional fish & chips — every Wednesday lunchtime, and on the evening menu. Customers from all walks of life love it, and I love cooking it to order.

• Music — sound system installation and licences are expensive, but worthwhile. Being able to control each speaker allows us to regulate the volume appropriately.

• I hold a complimentary gala evening for suppliers on our anniversary — it's expensive, but immensely rewarding, with a fantastic return throughout the year.

Our menu philosophy​

We offer a wide, varied choice in a compact, daily changing menu, and only buy things we can't make ourselves or which time doesn't allow us to prepare, including some ice creams, English mustard, Tommy K, spices and seasonings, cheese and a few other things.

Best-selling dishes​

Starters:​ Somerset Blue cheese pannacotta, baby herb salad & a balsamic reduction (£4.95), home-made monkfish scampi, home-made tartare sauce (£5.50), pan-seared Cornish scallops with home-made hodge podge (Cotswold black pudding) & a cider reduction (£6.95).

Mains:​ Duo of pork: char-grilled marinated fillet & pressed belly with celeriac purée, apple sauce & gravy (£12.95), rack of local lamb, mini shepherd's pie & rich red wine jus (£14.50), caramelised onion, goats' cheese & butternut squash tart, balsamic braised baby onions & salad (£8.50).

Desserts:​ rhubarb & ginger jelly topped with vanilla pannacotta (£4.50), trio of lemon desserts, lemon tart, lemon mousse, lemon Turkish delight (£4.50), home-made sticky toffee pudding with rich caramel sauce & vanilla ice cream (£4.50).

Three recommended suppliers​

• Butcombe Brewery, Coxs Green, Wrington, Bristol: Outstanding, well-respected ales, great ciders and Veltins premium lager. 01934 863963 www.butcombe.com​.

• Bath Fine Cheese Company, Walcote Street, Bath: Huge choice of well-known and unusual cheeses, plus expert advice and product knowledge. 01225 483407 www.finecheese.co.uk​