Pub Chef Opinion: Make the most of the fresh food around your pub

By Dominic Chapman

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags Fruit

Chapman: Hedgerows are full of flavourful foods and a walk in the country is like a sweet shop for any forager
Chapman: Hedgerows are full of flavourful foods and a walk in the country is like a sweet shop for any forager
Wild salmon is something that is completely different to the farmed salmon that most of us are used to. It has a deeper flavour and the appearance is also richer in colour. The question is, is it sustainable?

I would rather use farmed salmon if wild salmon stocks are worryingly low. But this year we have once again had wild salmon on the menu.

As we hear more and more about sustainable fishing and which fish we should or should not be using, I sometimes think that if these fish really are in danger, then we should have a complete ban on all fishing of endangered species.

The problem I have is when I am offered pollock over cod or farmed salmon over wild. These substitutes are not the same and the demand for the pollock over cod is just not there.

I think most of us have forgotten or never tasted wild salmon. If you are lucky enough to go fishing and catch a wild salmon, then cook it for your dinner — you will experience the true joy of this product, and realise that the natural produce is something very special and should be enjoyed.

The hedgerows are now full of all sorts of flavourful foods and a walk in the country is like a sweet shop for any forager.

Elderflower, wood sorrel, wild borage flowers, chickweed, rock samphire, wild marjoram and wild fennel are all there for the taking.

The Royal Oak’s kitchen ritual of producing hundreds of litres of elderflower cordial is now complete and this will serve us until Christmas.

We produce elderflower cocktails, ice cream and flavoured creams for jelly. Elderflower is absolutely delicious and a firm favourite
in June.

My local vegetable garden has now started producing courgette flowers, beetroot, broad beans and soft fruits that are juicy and full of flavour — and we can make strawberry jellies, raspberry ice creams, fruit sorbets, gooseberry fools and cherry trifle. All are seasonal dishes, and all taste perfect with these delicious fruits.

The British summer larder serves up some real treats.

  • Dominic Chapman is executive chef at the Royal Oak, Paley Street, Berkshire

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