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My pub: Lord Clifden in Birmingham

By Sheila McWattie

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags Beer

Lord Clifden: Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter
Lord Clifden: Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter
Graham Smith, co-owner of freehold the Lord Clifden in Birmingham’s revamped Jewellery Quarter, talks beer, food, art and gardens with Sheila McWattie

How I got here

My career as a chef began at the north east at Lumley Castle hotel between Durham and Newcastle in 1998, included various top hotels, and culminated at the Michelin-starred Arkle restaurant at the Chester Grosvenor. In 1996 I took on my first pub, the Dalesman Inn – a partnership leasehold in Sedbergh, Cumbria. After four years I moved to London and took on the Blenheim, a Chelsea-based Hall & Woodhouse managed house, which was sold to chef Tom Aikens in 2002. With London freehold prices high, I moved up to Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter in January 2003. I’ve always been passionate about the arts and my evolving vision encompassed food, drink, art, music and sport in one thriving pub business.

Growing the business

Massive regeneration of the city’s Jewellery Quarter was just beginning and beyond the Lord Clifden’s grubby upholstery, Artexed walls and scruffy garden lay huge charm and potential. I closed it for three months just after purchase and spent about £450,000 on the refurb.

Underpinning this evolution with a consistent approach in the kitchen is key to our growth and we aim to offer clean, comfy, homely, inviting and open place to eat, drink and enjoy times with friends and family. After the refurb our weekly takings were about £12,000; our consistent approach has helped it to increase year-on-year to our current £20,000. 

How we stand out

Being cool without being élitist informs all we offer and our Victorian lamps, modern exposed brickwork, prints by Banksy and other brilliant street artists, copper table tops, solid oak panelling and distressed button-back leather seating are a unique combination in this area.

Our regulars have been drinking here for years and we all welcome newcomers of all ages by catering for a wide range of tastes, including local football fans who enjoy our six indoor and five outdoor HD screens, Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) members, art-lovers, soul-music enthusiasts who followed the pub in its ‘mod’ days and fans of our indoor and outdoor weekend DJs. Every summer a hugely popular live jazz and beer festival in our garden helps us gauge local tastes.

Best piece of advice

Be consistent: ensuring that every staff member exemplifies your pub’s ethos and culture promotes productivity and encourages stronger customer loyalty and brand connection.

Future plans

It’s vital to stay alert and respond to the changing local habits, growing competition and nature of the industry. We’ll continue to build on our quality offer, continuing to add exciting imported beers and lagers while experimenting with new dishes. A takeaway menu service is being developed and we also plan to extend food-availability times. In our barbecue area we’ll incorporate more choice for those not requiring large meals, with customer feedback favouring hog roast as an addition.

At the end of the day, you’re judged on your beer and food. We’ve got art, wireless internet and our lovely garden, but it’s still the traditional things that sell the place.

On the menu...
Menu philosophy

Focusing on quality local produce, our traditional modern British menu comprises home-made pies, bespoke sausages and mash, beer-battered haddock and fresh, home-made weekly changing seasonal specials such as wild boar burgers, ostrich steak, fish and game. Diversification is key to suit constantly changing palates and ensure we have the edge locally and further afield.

Our three Observer Food Monthly awards – twice as a national runner-up for Best Place to Drink and once as a national runner-up for Best Sunday Lunch – help to place us on the national dining map.

Best-selling dishes

Starter:​ Home-made range of soups (£3.95)

Main:​ Sunday roast (£9.95) or double meat roast (£14.95)

Dessert:​ Home-made chocolate brownie (£4.50)

Pub facts
Head chef: Mike Fullard
Tenure: Freehold
Wet:dry split: 30:70
Annual turnover: £1m
Covers: 80 inside; 100 outside
Meals per week: 700 plus
Dry GP: 60/65%
Wet GP: 60%
Average spend per head: £10

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