Trend Watch: Wellington - fit for a Duke

As with so many dishes, the origin of the Wellington is highly contentious. But what can’t be doubted is its place in today’s culinary landscape.

The traditional Wellington usually consists of a fillet steak coated with pâté and duxelles (a paste made from

mushrooms​​, onions​​, shallots​​ and herbs​​ sautéed​​ in butter), which is then wrapped in puff pastry, or sometimes a crêpe​​, and baked.

Alternative meats​

While beef remains a popular option, a number of alternative meat choices are popping up on menus.

The Kingham Plough, in Oxfordshire, has a pheasant Wellington on its a la carte menu. The pub, co-owned by Great British Menu 2014​ winner Emily Watkins, offers it with parsnip and apple rosti, parsnip puree, caramelised apples and curly kale for £20.

Another game meat is being used in a Wellington dish at the Sign of the Don bar and bistro, in the City of London. Its venison Wellington (£19) appears once a week as a ‘daily special’ on the a la carte menu. It is served with a number of side options, such as triple-cooked chips, green-leaf salad, or baby spinach with pine nuts and raisins.

Kids’ appeal​

Colin McGurran, another Great British Menu 2014​ winner, likes to use pork when making a Wellington. The chef, who recently opened his first pub – the Hope & Anchor in South Ferriby, Lincolnshire – believes pork makes the dish appealing to children. He recommends serving it with potato dauphinoise and green beans.

Jamie Oliver is also a big fan of Wellingtons. Made from mince instead of fillet, his individually sized beef Wellingtons include a ‘twist’ of chilli and cumin.

In addition, Oliver has a turkey Wellington recipe, as well as a mushroom and squash alternative for vegetarians – both with Christmas in mind.

Vegetarian options​

No doubt helped by likes of Oliver, vegetarian Wellington dishes have soared in popularity in recent years and are now a frequent sight on pub menus.

The Ribble Valley-owned Red Pump Inn, in Bashall Eaves, Lancashire, offers a Wellington made with roasted nuts, seeds, vegetables and mushrooms – served with sauté potatoes, greens and a garlic butter sauce – for £13.

Similarly, Thwaites pub the Bridge Inn, near Ridgeway, South Yorkshire, has a Brie, cranberry and portobello mushroom Wellington for £8.95. It is served with crushed garlic potatoes and vegetables.

Meanwhile, the White Hart, in Barnes, west London, will be providing a wild mushroom, spinach and chestnut Wellington with celeriac dauphinoise, Brussels sprouts, spiced red cabbage, and honey-roasted carrots and parsnips on its Christmas Day menu.

Back to beef

The Young’s pub hasn’t forgotten about the good-old beef Wellington though. One of its signature dishes over the past couple of years has been its braised short-rib Wellington with whisky wood-smoked mash, glazed Chantenay carrots and roasted shallots, which was recently available for £20.

Wellingtons can also serve as ideal sharing dishes – The Hemmingway, in Hackney, north London, recently had a beef Wellington to share for £38.