As with so many dishes, the origin of the Wellington is highly contentious. But what can’t be doubted is its place in today’s culinary landscape.
The traditional Wellington usually consists of a fillet steak coated with pâté and duxelles (a paste made from
mushrooms, onions, shallots and herbs sautéed in butter), which is then wrapped in puff pastry, or sometimes a crêpe, and baked.
Alternative meats
While beef remains a popular option, a number of alternative meat choices are popping up on menus.
The Kingham Plough, in Oxfordshire, has a pheasant Wellington on its a la carte menu. The pub, co-owned by Great British Menu 2014 winner Emily Watkins, offers it with parsnip and apple rosti, parsnip puree, caramelised apples and curly kale for £20.
Another game meat is being used in a Wellington dish at the Sign of the Don bar and bistro, in the City of London. Its venison Wellington (£19) appears once a week as a ‘daily special’ on the a la carte menu. It is served with a number of side options, such as triple-cooked chips, green-leaf salad, or baby spinach with pine nuts and raisins.
Kids’ appeal
Colin McGurran, another Great British Menu 2014 winner, likes to use pork when making a Wellington. The chef, who recently opened his first pub – the Hope & Anchor in South Ferriby, Lincolnshire – believes pork makes the dish appealing to children. He recommends serving it with potato dauphinoise and green beans.
Jamie Oliver is also a big fan of Wellingtons. Made from mince instead of fillet, his individually sized beef Wellingtons include a ‘twist’ of chilli and cumin.
In addition, Oliver has a turkey Wellington recipe, as well as a mushroom and squash alternative for vegetarians – both with Christmas in mind.
Vegetarian options
No doubt helped by likes of Oliver, vegetarian Wellington dishes have soared in popularity in recent years and are now a frequent sight on pub menus.
The Ribble Valley-owned Red Pump Inn, in Bashall Eaves, Lancashire, offers a Wellington made with roasted nuts, seeds, vegetables and mushrooms – served with sauté potatoes, greens and a garlic butter sauce – for £13.
Similarly, Thwaites pub the Bridge Inn, near Ridgeway, South Yorkshire, has a Brie, cranberry and portobello mushroom Wellington for £8.95. It is served with crushed garlic potatoes and vegetables.
Meanwhile, the White Hart, in Barnes, west London, will be providing a wild mushroom, spinach and chestnut Wellington with celeriac dauphinoise, Brussels sprouts, spiced red cabbage, and honey-roasted carrots and parsnips on its Christmas Day menu.
Back to beef
The Young’s pub hasn’t forgotten about the good-old beef Wellington though. One of its signature dishes over the past couple of years has been its braised short-rib Wellington with whisky wood-smoked mash, glazed Chantenay carrots and roasted shallots, which was recently available for £20.
Wellingtons can also serve as ideal sharing dishes – The Hemmingway, in Hackney, north London, recently had a beef Wellington to share for £38.