Trend watch: asparagus springs to life

The British asparagus season begins in late April and is brought to a swift end in June by the UK’s traditionally untrustworthy climate.

But for eager operators, the season can be the perfect opportunity to incorporate the veg into a host of dishes.

“Freshly picked asparagus is the caviar of the plant world, with a powerful and unique taste,” says Sarah Raven, author of Sarah Raven’s Garden Cookbook​. “I don’t think it makes much difference how you cook it – if you’ve got very fresh asparagus then it’s magnificent however you cook it.”

Celeb endorsement​

The spear-shaped shoots can be a versatile menu option – working either as a centrepiece or an accompaniment in a variety of dishes.

“Green English asparagus is particularly good as a garnish for main dishes,” says celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay. “I peel almost the whole length to nearer the tip – my usual preparation is to blanch and refresh the spears and then reheat in a little buttery water just before serving.”

And certain areas of the country such as Evesham and Norfolk are particularly abundant in asparagus, so much so, that bundles of it are reported to sprout from the side of roads.

Hot spots​

Operators local to these hotspots have been quick to capitalise. At National Trust-owned site the Fleece Inn, in the Valley of Evesham, a specialist asparagus menu is on offer throughout the season.

And the Fleece Inn’s obsession with asparagus doesn’t end with food. The pub also sells a selection of asparagus liquors, including its own asparagus gin. Asparagus tea is also available to brave customers.

Some of the pub’s previous initiative have included getting well-known chef Felice Tocchini to create an asparagus ice cream bombe and sourcing asparagus jam from the nearby Wayside farm shop.

Booming business​

“We normally raise about £2000 for the local silver band from our asparagus auction,” says licensee Nigel Smith. “We also do a two-day ‘Asparafest’ in the mid-season, which usually attracts about 10,000 people.

“I took on the pub 12 years ago – I knew nothing about the asparagus culture beforehand - it was a bit of a strange surprise. This year we’re taking a hundred of asparagus to the lord mayor of Leicester.

Some of the asparagus-focussed dishes on the Fleece Inn’s past menus have included Cotswold organic brie, shallot and asparagus tart with balsamic chutney, asparagus stuffed pork fillet wrapped in bacon with saffron sauce and new potatoes and homemade cream of asparagus soup.

“It’s very, very good for business,” Smith says. “You do get desperate for the season to arrive. Although after six weeks you do get a little fed up of it. And it does make your wee smell.”

This year's Asparafest will take place on 30 and 31 May.

Current options​

Some pubs already have asparagus dishes on their menus.

Renaissance pub the Latchmere, in Battersea, south London, is currently offering grilled English asparagus, poached duck egg and old Winchester shavings as a starter option for £7 or £12.50.

The Harrow in Caterham , Surrey, has an English asparagus wrapped in Parma ham and savoury pancake topped with hollandaise sauce on its specials board. The wrap is available for £5.95.