Menus showcase the best of the British Isles in all its glory and social media is a technicolour dream of vibrant plates.
It truly is a chef’s dream. Like an artist having a palette with a thousand colours, the pictures we paint and the dishes we create are reflective of the ingredients we have.
But what of the colder months? You would be correct in assuming it is a more difficult time of year to create menus and keep customers excited when buzz words like Cheddar Vale Strawberries and Wye Valley Asparagus are not there to tempt people.
Despite this, it is a fantastic opportunity to highlight less popular or less well-known produce but to also flex a more creative muscle and show ingenuity.
Complete metamorphosis
Take the quince, for example. I do not recommend plucking one from the tree and biting into it unless you want a rather tart surprise and a sizeable dentist bill. However, with work and patience it undergoes a complete metamorphosis.
Most people do not have them at home so I relish the chance to show it to customers. After a slow poach, I use it in a sorbet with rose and star anise, allowing the high pectin levels to create the most luscious mouthfeel. The leftover cooking syrup is exceptional in a cocktail topped up with champagne and garnished with fresh lemon thyme. It is not an easy fruit, but it is worth the effort.
Small, independent traders like Trish Maunder at Somerset Membrillo, is testament to this with her truly outstanding membrillo that takes days of labour. I particularly enjoy it paired with game birds and kammouneh spice.
The clever people at Somerset Cider Brandy Company have created a quince liqueur, that takes not only skill, but patience and is a delightful digestif. With just one fruit, I am supporting local producers, making seasonal desserts and drinks and ultimately creating conversation.
The fruit and vegetables at this time of year are harder and hardier but that makes them more satisfying to work with. Even their names sound more brumal. Ironbark pumpkin? The name alone is a great talking point with customers and before even seeing it, one can already imagine the tough skin. But with a sharp knife and the resolve to break through the unyielding exterior, the flesh is honeyed and nutty, and lends itself to savoury and sweet dishes alike.
More complex flavours
A pumpkin and mahleb crème pâtissier makes a beautiful accompaniment to caramelised white chocolate. The flavour is familiar and dare I say reminiscent of pumpkin spice that is loved and loathed by many. But it is elevated, exciting and ultimately fun.
Dark, leafy, greens like cavolo nero, savoy cabbages and the much-maligned Brussel sprout all make an appearance too. Needing more care and attention than their sunny counterparts but giving us more complex flavours. I make it my personal mission to convert the Brussel sprout haters into lovers. With date molasses and caramelised hazelnuts, these divisive little buds are an epicurean delight.
Instead of lamenting the bare trees and sparse produce, think of it as a challenge. It is the opportunity to be innovative and get people talking.
It is cold outside and I am wearing two layers of socks with my kitchen Birkenstocks but there is a riot of colour and flavour coming from my kitchen.
Keats wrote his Ode To Autumn and this is mine… but about brassicas. The ‘Keats of Kale’ if you will.
