But what are the origins of the style and why are so many beer drinkers now looking beyond bland, industrially produced lagers for something with real authenticity and flavour?
The origins of lager are deep and complex with various historic styles in a wide variety of colours and flavours, and though the earliest lagers were almost certainly dark and perhaps even a little smoky, it was pale lager that really conquered the world.
Here, we’re looking at Pilsners, which almost always come in one of two distinct styles that each have origins in the 19th century: Czech Pilsner, named after Pilzen, the Czech town where the style was created, and German Pilsner, which took the style and adapted it to suit German ingredients and tastes.
Czech Pilsner is typified by having a rich golden colour that comes not only from the malts used but also the decoction mash brewing technique where a proportion of the beer is boiled at high temperature to caramelise the sugars – giving the beer a distinct background caramel flavour. This technique adds sweetness and complexity to the beer, which is then counteracted by a heavy dose of bitter and aromatic Czech Saaz hops – creating a beer that is incredibly full-flavoured but also balanced and drinkable.
The aromatic oils from those hops are particularly noticeable in the head of the beer, which is why Pilsner should always be served with a generous head atop the glass.
German Pilsner is closer to what most people think of when they think of pale lager; drier, paler and while certainly less complex than Czech lager, some would argue it has a cleaner flavour.
German Noble hops and mineral-rich brewing water also enhance the clean aromatics and ‘bite’ of German-style Pilsner, which is also about crisp refreshment.
When done well, both are superb beers in their own right, it really comes down to personal preference.
Like all beer, the best flavour can be had when you buy fresh local beer, and luckily there are some world-class Pilsners now being made by indie brewers in the UK.
Here’s my pick of some of the best Pilsners being brewed in the UK right now:
Baron – Willow Pils (4.8% ABV)
Brewed with a strong German influence, ‘Willow’ by Cambridgeshire brewery Baron features speciality Pilsner malt and Tettnang hops, both imported from Germany. The beer is superbly bright, clean and fresh, with a really satisfyingly snappy hop finish. A brewery perhaps better known for their IPAs and pale ales, this beer shows just how good a really well-brewed lager can be.
Twice Brewed – Juno Original (5.1% ABV)
The multiple award-winning ‘Juno’ by Twice Brewed is a traditional Bohemian (Czech) style Pilsner, pale gold in colour with a light background sweetness and floral, subtly spicy aromatics coming from the traditional Saaz hops. After fermentation the beer is further conditioned or ‘lagered’ for a full six weeks in tanks to round out the flavour of the beer before it’s served, as is traditional of the style.
Utopian X Gadds – Green-Hopped Pilsner (5.0% ABV)
Lager specialists Utopian have made a name for themselves brewing incredibly authentic European lager styles using all-British ingredients, and this Green-Hopped Pilsner is one of their most delicious. A collaboration with Gadds in Kent, it uses locally grown Kentish hops added to the brew while still fresh and green to give big aromatics and a slightly spicy, floral, lemony aroma to the finished beer.
Geipel – Pilsner (4.6% ABV)
Founded in 2013, Geipel Brewery in north Wales are, in their own words “a microbrewery specialising in bottom-fermented beers, more commonly known as lagers”, which gives you a clue as to the authenticity and attention to detail they take in all of their beers. Their flagship Pilsner is a great example, highly drinkable but with a noticeable bitterness. Using top-quality German malt and hops the beer is left unfiltered and unpasteurised to preserve every ounce of flavour.
Bellfield – Bohemian Pilsner (4.5% ABV)
Scottish Brewery Bellfield, based in Edinburgh, have been around for almost a decade and their Bohemian Pilsner is a firm customer favourite. A Czech-style Pilsner, it’s not as intense as some examples, with a great background bitterness and gentle floral notes before a soft and refreshing finish. A real crowd-pleasing independently brewed Pilsner.
- Neil Walker is a beer sommelier and Head of Communications at SIBA, the Society of Independent Brewers and Associates, who recently launched the much-heralded Indie Beer campaign. The campaign seeks to make it easier for customers to discover beer from genuine independent breweries and you can find out more via www.indiebeer.uk
